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THE HORSE: 

A TREATISE ON THE 

EDUCATION 



AND 



Management of Horses 



THEIR DISEASES AND REMEDIES. 



TO WHICH IS ADDED 



A Treatise on the Management of 
Cattle and Dogs, 

BY 
V 

PROF. H. PRUDDEN. 




LOCKPORT, N. Y. : 

M. C. RICHARDSON, BOOK AND JOB PRINTER, 

(Journal Office,) 91 Main Street. 

1869. 






TO PURCHASERS. 

Persons buying this work have every right of using, 
but no right of teaching, or transferring to others, the 
book or its contents. By so doing they will lay them-* 
selves liable to prosecution. 



Entered according to act Of Congress, in the year 1 SCO, by 

H. PRUDDEN, 

in the Clerk's office of tae District Court ot the United states, for the Northern 

District of New York. 



PREFACE. 



The author of this work having had a long experience in hand- 
ling some of the most vicious horses in the country, and having 
met with entire success, would ofter his work to all lovers of this 
most noble animal, the Horse. We bring this system before the 
public, in printed form, so that all who favor us with their 
patronage may be benefitted thereby. 

In treating upon this theory, we are well aware of the dis- 
advantages under which we labor ; and perfectly conscious of 
the prejudices which we are apt to excite in men who, having 
managed horses for a considerable extent of time, and having a 
way of their own with which they are usually satisfied, are likely 
to say humbug to any idea which to them is new and strange- 
There also exists in the minds cf many intelligent persons an 
opposition to all professionals endeavoring to improve the horse. 
This opposition arises from the many failures among that class, 
and the consequent damage done to animals handled by such 
men. We do not expect to obliterate these prejudices, but have 
courage to hope from past experience that if we are given a care- 
ful hearing, and our theory put fully into practice, we can improve 
the opinions of the people beyond all doubt on the subject of 
Horse Education. We are about to introduce to you one of the 
most easy, practical, and improved systems of horse-training ever 
known. It is our dekire to make this a reliable and valuable book 
of reference. It will be found not only to correct many of the 



errors generally entertained in regard to the successful manage- 
ment of horses, but to give a full explanation of the principles of 
our present improved system. 

Our treatment of diseases is taken from some of the best 
Veterinary Surgeons in the country, and are accounted reliable. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Our object in presenting this little work to the public,' is to 
alleviate as far as possible the sufferings of that noble, and much 
abused animal, the horse. And, also, to teach man, who is his 
natural master, the best, easiest, and most practical way of making 
him a kind, willing, obedient servant to do his bidding. God 
made man in his own image, and to him was given the control 
over the beasts of the field, the fowls of the air, and the fish of 
the sea ; and, in order that man may successfully exercise that 
control over the animal creation, God has endowed him with a 
superior order of intellect. It cannot be denied that animals 
possess understanding, — instinct, we call it ; but it is an instinct 
capable of education and government. 

All have heard of, or seen wonderful feats performed by ani- 
mals, birds and serpents ; and even swine, that are supposed to 
possess the smallest degree of intellect, have been educated and 
made to perform wonderful feats of intelligence. But man has 
a higher order of understanding, which the animal creation does 
not possess. Man reasons from cause to effect, and it is to mind 
and not to matter that he looks to explain his reasoning ; for his 
mind is capable of expansion to an almost unlimited extent, 
while animals reason only from experience. No animal, trained 
to wonderful and seemingly impossible feats, has the power to 
impart his knowledge to another creature, Each, for himself, 
must be taught by man, or learn by experience, if at all. A 
horse's sense is good common sense. Many a man knows less, in 



proportion to his intellect, than a horse, and, in the same propor- 
tion, a horse is much easier taught. There are in horses, as in 
man, mucli difference, some being more intelligent than others. 
A horse is not naturally suspicious, but, while young, is timid, and 
soon learns that teeth and heels are his only weapons, and flight 
his greatest security. His boldness and " the glory of his nostril " 
comes when he u rejoiceth in his strength ; " with his age comes 
the knowledge of his power, and if he has never been mastered, 
never made to yield to any will but his own, if he is to be made 
useful to man, the struggle must come sooner or later, and the 
will of the man, or that of the horse, must triumph. Let a horse 
once learn that he can gain an advantage over man by the use of 
his heels, and he soon learns from experience that he can break 
the slender shafts and free himself from the buggy, and he will 
become a kicker and a runaway ; another rears and falls back or 
sideways ; so with biting and all other bad habits of a horse. The 
horse is possessed of superior strength, and man of superior mind. 
Hence it is evident that our power over him is not physical power 
only, as of brute over brute, but of mind over matter, or of a 
superior over an inferior order of intellect. Should we attempt 
to measure our strength with that of a horse, he would be the 
victor in every case. It is therefore evident that we are dependent 
for our mastery over the horse, upon our skill and ability to use 
our superior understanding in such a way as to overcome his 
strength. In other words, we must out-general him in order to 
bring him under our control, and make him do our bidding. And 
in order to do this successfully, we must understand something of 
his nature and the laws by which he is governed. 



REMARKS 

On the Nature and Disposition of the Horse. 

We believe that the horse is governed by his animal instincts 
and nature, and that he has no rational conception of mind or 
thought ; yet we contend that he can be educated more easily 
than any other animal known to civilization, if taken in confor- 
mity with the laws of his nature. We will first give you the 
three fundamental principles of our theory, those principles being 
founded in the leading characteristics ot the animal : 

1. That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer 
resistance to any demand made of him which he fully compre- 
hends, if made consistent with the laws of his nature. 

2. That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his 
experience, and can be handled according to our will, without 
force. 

3. That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature — by 
which he examines all things — take any object, however frightful, 
around or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him 
to fear, 

We take these assertions in order : First, then, we will tell you 
why we think che horse is naturally obedient. The horse, though 
possessed of sensitiveness to a greater degree than man, is defic- 
ient in reasoning power — has no knowledge of right or wrong, or 
will ol his own independent of government, and knows of no 
imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonable those im- 
positions may be, consequently he can come to no conclusion 
what he should or should not do — because he has not the reason- 



8 

ing powers of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of 
him. If he had taken into consideration his superior strength 
he would be useless to man as a servant. Give him knowledge 
in proportion to his strength, and he will demand of us the green 
fields as his inheritance, where he will roam at will, denying the 
right of servitude to all; but God has wisely formed his nature so 
that it can be acted upon by the knowledge of man, according to 
the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed the uncon- 
scious and submissive servant. Then we can but come to the 
conclusion that if the horse is not taken at variance with the laws 
of his nature, that he will do any thing that he comprehends 
without making an offer of resistance. 

Second, The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount 
of his strength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one who 
will take the trouble to observe him for a day. 

Third, That he will allow any object, however frightful, to come 
around or over him, that does not inflict pain. 

Fear always arises either from the effect of imagination or from 
the infliction of pain, frequently from both causes combined. For 
example, let a horse become frightened at the cars, the noise of a 
wagon, or sound of a drum; if, in his struggles to free himself, his 
heels come in contact with the cross-piece or whiffletrees, he asso- 
ciates that hurt with the first cause of fear; and whenever, after- 
ward, his heels come in contact with the whiffletrees, he remem- 
bers the former fright and is equally alarmed. But let him once, 
according to the laws of his nature, be convinced of the harm- 
lessness of the object, and he ever afterward will regard it with 
the utmost unconcern. All experience proves this. The worst 
horses in the country have been cured of fear of robes, blankets, 
umbrellas, newspapers, &c, &c. We have never known it to fail, 
that as soon as the horse was convinced of the harinlessness of 
any place or object, he ceased entirely to regard it with fear. 

The horse in his natural state, roamed over the broad fields 
uncontrolled and untamed, and there would have been no need of 
subdueing him by force had there been no law of his nature 



9 

violated. Man, being possessed of intellectual resources, can 
devise and invent means by which he can overcome the superior 
strength of the horse and subdue him. Here lies the secret and 
foundation of our system of managing and subduing wild and 
vicious horses. In the first place, we must impress upon the mind 
of the horse most thoroughly an undoubted sense of our superior- 
ity and strength, and to do this too in such a way as not to arouse 
his resistance. In the second place, so disconcert and control him 
under all circumstances, as to impress upon his mind most forci- 
bly, the utter impossibility of any successful resistance to our 
power or strength ; in fact, to beat him upon his own ground with 
the apparent ease and certainty of positive ability, without resort- 
ing to harsh means or inflicting pain. In the third place, teach 
the horse exactly what you want him to do, and be sure that he 
fully comprehends what is required of him. And in the fourth 
place, by uniform acts of kindness, win the confidence of the 
horse, and teach him that you are his best friend, and in a short 
time he will learn to associate with your presence, a feeling of 
protection and security. 

Here we would call attention to one of the first principles of 
our system of education ; it is, caress the horse kindly for 
doing right. If you wish to encourage a boy and tell him he has 
done right, you pat him on the head, and say, "good boy." So 
with an animal. 

Patting and caressing kindly, conveys to them the idea that 
you are pleased with them, that they have done right, and there 
is no animal more sensitive to this kind caressing than the horse ; 
he always understands it to mean " that's right," that you are 
pleased with him. As an illustration of the truth of this state- 
ment : we once had a horse, nine years of age, brought to us to 
be taught to back. Several men that were acquainted with him 
said it could not be done. They came to see the fun, they said. 
They had seen four men work at him an hour at a time, and, with 
their united strength, could not make him back at all ; they had 
a very severe bit in his mouth, which had cut it very badly. We 



10 

worked at him a short time, and got him to take just one step 
back with one foot. We then caressed him kindly, and, on tak- 
ing hold of the reins again, he stepped back four steps. We then 
caressed him again, and he got the idea of what was wanted, and 
he would back all over the ring, and would back readily whenever 
we wished him to. We saw the owner a few days alter, who said 
he was all right, that he would back all day if he kept saying 
"back." The fact was, the horse had never before understood 
what was wanted of him. 

The horse's confidence and rebellion being usually the result of 
long experience in successful resistance, his subjugation must be 
made convincing by repeated proofs of being over-matched, and 
that resistance is useless. For since his willfulness and rebellion 
are based upon the limited reasoning of his experience, he must 
be thoroughly convinced by experience that unconditional sub- 
mission is the only alternative, and this you cannot prove to the 
understanding of the horse without repeating your lessons until 
he submits unconditionally. His submission should be encour- 
aged and rewarded by kindness and caressing ; that master is 
supreme in his control, and submission to his commands becomes 
a pleasure, who has the power to enforce his will, but who exer- 
cises it with the sweetening encouragement of love. 

While force is necessary, and you have the means of making 
your horse almost a plaything in your hands, let the silken cord of 
love be the cement that fixes and secures his submission to your 
will. It is admitted that a good-natured, clever man, can teach a 
horse almost anything, and it has become a proverb that " kind- 
ness will lead an elephant by a hair." So the horse should be 
treated with kindness and consideration. His spirit should be 
curbed and directed — but not subdued. Man has the right of 
control, restraint, correction, and even destruction of life, but he 
must bear the consequences of those violations of the laws of his 
nature to which he is thereby subjected. Show your horse exactly 
what you want him to do, and endeavor to use the patience and 
reason in teaching and controlling him, you would at least believe 



11 

necessary for yourself if placed in like circumstances. Ignorant 
of the language and intentions of a teacher, who even preserved 
his patience and refrained from abuse, what progress would you 
make as a pupil, if placed in like circustances, gifted as you are 
with all your intelligence ? If possible, enoble and elevate your 
feelings by relieving your responsibility to yourself, to community, 
and to the noble animal cqpimitted to your charge. Make your 
horse a friend by kindness and good treatment. Be a kind mas- 
ter, and not a tyrant, and make your horse a willing and obedient 
servant. 

There are a few simple, common sense rules, which, if followed, 
will commend themselves to the horse as well as to the driver. 

First. Always feel kindly towards your horse, no matter what 
he does to you ; and never, under any circumstances, show temper 
or get excited. Remember the horse knows instinctively just how 
you feel. 

Second. Never go near a horse if you are afraid of him. He 
will know it and take advantage of it before you acknowledge it 
yourself. We once knew a man who brought home a kicking 
horse. His man took care of him at night and in the morning, 
the horse showing no disposition to kick. But the first time he 
attempted to go near him after learning the horse was vicious, he 
kicked at him. The man was not conscious of showing signs of 
fear, but the horse felt it. 

Third. Never undertake anything with the horse that you do 
not know you can carry out. 

Fourth. Don't be in a hurry. Teach the horse what you want 
of him, as a child learns his alphabet, one letter at a time ; and 
be sure that he knows each simple thing, before you attempt to 
teach him another, repeating the lessons often. 

Fifth. Reward each effort to do as you wish by caressing, 
whether he means it, or does it accidentally. Punish for doing 
wrong, but reward for doing right. 

Sixth. Be sure that it is your will, and not his, that conquers 
in every case. 



12 

Seventh. Never, under any circumstances, deceive your horse ; 
and never say whoa ! unless you want him to stop. Have a sep- 
arate and distinct word for every command, and let him under- 
stand what it means and nothing else. How many times we have 
heard men say whoa ! back! haw! when the haw! was all they 
wanted. And again, how many times you see men drive a nerv- 
ous, excitable horse, and keep saying whoa ! all the time to quiet 
him down. Now, if you learn your horse that whoa ! means any- 
thing or nothing at all, how can you expect him to stop at the 
word? Use the word steady! as something else to quiet him; 
but never say whoa ! unless you want him to stop. 

Horsemanship has reached its present stage of perfection by a 
gradual process of experiments and discoveries. In all man's in- 
ventions and discoveries, he has invariably commenced with some 
simple principle, and gradually developed it from one degree of 
perfection to another. 

The first hint of the power ot electricity was Franklin's bring- 
ing it down on the string of his kite. Now it might be said that 
man has entire control of the subtle element — making it the in- 
strument of transmitting thought from one extremity of the globe 
to the other with a rapidity that surpasses time. And the great 
propelling power that forces the wheels of the steam-car over vast 
continents, and plows the ocean and rivers with thousands of 
steamers, was first discovered escaping from a teakettle. And so 
the power of the horse, second only to the power of steam, lias 
become known to man only as observation and investigation re- 
vealed them. 

We teach the theory that the horse is a teachable creature, and 
that his mind can be educated, and when tully and properly 
taught, it is as durable as lite — excej^t the principles taught are 
forced from his mind by systematic missmanagement — and we be- 
lieve the horse is much easier taught than man. We claim for our 
system a superiority over all others, for this reason : that all other 
general systems that have been introduced have been both labori 
ous and dangerous to man and beast, while our system is both 



13 

safe and easy — from the fact of its being a natural one. We 
further contend and believe that our system of training the horse 
is the most perfect now known, and challenge the world to confute 
the principles on which it is based. 

The system of horse training, as practiced by J. S. Rarey, was 
the best system known at that time. But there were very few 
men that had the courage, the muscular strength, and the ability 
to conquer a vicious horse on the Rarey plan. 

But the new system which we teach, and which was discovered 
and brought to perfection after years of careful study of the na- 
ture and disposition of the horse, and which is now practiced and 
taught by use, is both safe, easy, practical and lasting. By it a 
horse becomes a mere play-thing in our hands. 

The resistance of the horse is exactly in proportion to the con- 
fidence he has in his own power or ability to resist control, and 
anything which reduces that confidence, reduces his disposition to 
resist. Loss of food or drink, bleeding, physicing, severe pain or 
violent exercise, all have a tendency to prevent resistance, just in 
proportion as they reduce vitality, and destroy his confidence in 
himself. It is on this principle that the Indians of our western 
plains, and the South Americans, break their wild horses. 

They first catch them with a lasso, and then ride them with 
whip and spur, until, from exhaustion, they become gentle and sub- 
missive. Disabling the horse by strapping up one or both fore 
legs, is a more direct method of accomplishing this end, and has 
long been regarded as a great secret in the art of controlling 
horses. So long ago as 1762, an account was given in Bartlet's 
Gentleman's Farrier, of this method, which was then described 
as Dr. Bracken's. In 1825 an account was given in Bell's Life, 
published in London, of the wonderful powers exhibited by a man 
named Bull, over horses, which was also described as being ac- 
complished by this method. The fame of the once noted Whis- 
perer Sullivan, who flourished sixty years ago in Ireland, was un- 
questionably based upon the practice of this means of subjection. 



14 

A man named Offut, claims to have practiced this method of 
subjection in this country as long ago as 1825, and to have sold 
the secret to Mr. Rarey. Mr. O. II. P. Fancher, who is well 
known in the New England States, claims to have practiced this 
method tor many years, and advertises having give 1 Mr. Rarey 
his practical instructions in the use of the art. But Mr. Rarey 
established the precedence of his claims to the public attention, 
and identified his name with this theory of management, by his 
exhibitions of power over a number of bad horses in England in 
1858, and also in this country about the same time. 

Mr. Rarey deserves great credit for bringing his theory before 
the public, and reducing it to a practical system. 

Mr. Rarey's plan of subduing the horse was, first, to strap up 
the left fore leg, then to put a strap on the right fore leg, between 
the foot and fetlock, bringing it up over the surcingle, and holding 
it in one hand. Then, by pressing against the horse until lie at- 
tempted to take a step, he would pull his foot from under him, 
bringing him on his knees. The horse would then come up and 
down on his knees, until, becoming exhausted, he would lie down. 

Rarey says he will generally lie down in ten minutes, but we 
have seen horses that would not lie down in half an hour, if at all. 

The Rarey plan of controlling a vicious or a runaway horse was 
by means of foot straps, which were brought back to the buggy, 
and held in the hand with the reins ; then, it the horse should be- 
come unmanageable, his feet could be pulled from under him, 
bringing him on his knees. Many a horse has had his knees in- 
jured, it not entirely ruined, in this way. 

By our new system we are enabled to subdue ahorse and bring 
him under control at once, and effectually, without giving him 
time to get excited or to offer much resistance. We can lay him 
down ten times in a minute, if we can get him up fast enough. 
We have done it sixteen times in a minute, by the watch, and it 
is not necessary to go within twenty feet of him to do it, so that 
the operator is at a safe distance. 



15 

To illustrate the principle. A few years ago wrestling was a 
favorite sport with young men, and often with older ones. Sup- 
pose a man succeeds in throwing his opponent ; if it has been 
difficult to accomplish and taken some time, the other will feel 
ready to try again as soon as he is rested. But if the victor 
should be able to throw him ten times in a minute, and apparently 
without much effort, he will be ready to yield, perceiving, at once, 
the other's superior strength. 

So it is with the horse. Although he resists a little at first, he 
is soon convinced of his utter inability to help himself in the 
least, and yields. 

Another very essential point, and wherein we claim lies our 
greatest success, and the superiority of this system over all others, 
is the manner in which we reach the intellect of the horse, and 
teach him what we want him to do. We always caress him when 
he does right, but never when doing wrong, and he soon learns 
that a caress means that we are satisfied that he has done right. 
We see the^truth of this demonstrated every day. 

Even when he does right from accident, we caress him, so that 
he understands, at once, what is wanted of him, and is ready to 
do it again. We educate the head instead of the heels. If we 
can get the attention of the horse, at the head, we take it away 
from his heels. The horse is so constituted that he can only think 
of one thing at a time. 

We contend that a horse is always ready and willing to do 
whatever is required of him, if he fully comprehends what is 
wanted, and has not learned by experience tbat he can gain an 
advantage by resistance. 



The Wild Colt. 

As the training of the horse must be based upon the observance 
of those principles of his nature requiring the exercise of his 
reason in everything forced upon his attention, and of conveying 
to his understanding most clearly what is required of him, it is 



16 

advisable to commence our lessons on the management of horses 
by explaining how to proceed with the wild colt : First, prepare 
your barn, or such place as you design for your training room. 
Everything tending to annoy or excite your colt — hens, hogs, or 
dogs, must be driven out. Endeavor to be all alone with your 
horse. Do not suffer the curious — who will be anxious to judge 
of your ability, as they would term it, — to crowd in. Guard 
against such a nuisance, if possible, and as such persons are 
usually slow to take a hint, be decisive in your wishes, observing 
that it is a positive condition of your instructions. Your object 
next is to get your colt into his place, which you must do as quietly 
and gently as possible. You can accomplish this best by leading 
in and hitching in his view another horse. The colt will, gener- 
ally, soon walk in of his own accord, but if he should not, do not 
be in a hurry to drive him in. Walk quietly around him, and 
gradually give him less room by closing in upon him. Be slow 
and careful, and he will not run or become frightened. Give him 
time to examine and look around, and in a short time he will walk 
in. When in 9 remove the old horse as quickly as possible. There 
are two ways of haltering, either of which will answer. We will 
give both ways, and the opeiator may adopt the one best suited 
to the case. The first is to approach and familiarize yourself to 
to the colt until he will let you approach readily and handle him 
as you please, when the halter may easily be put on. The other 
is to get the halter on before you have succeeded in gentling him 
much. In ordinary cases, the first one will be the most practica- 
ble, but if the colt is extremely wild and nervous, the latter is 
preferred : because a much quicker method, and does not excite. 



First Method for Ordinary Cases. 

As soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the restraint of 
the enclosure, go cautiously and slowly towards him, making no 
demonstration at all, but talking gently, or singing, as you please. 
He does not understand your language, and you talk or sing the 



17 

sooner to reconcile him to your presence and attract his attention. 
If he begins to walk away from you, stop, but continue your talk- 
ing and singing, and appear as careless as you can about his pres- 
ence, until he becomes quiet again. Then start again and leis- 
urely approach him as before, and so repeat as circumstances re- 
quire until you are close enough to touch his withers, or permit 
him to smell of your hand, should he seem so disposed. Then 
allow him to eat something that he likes from your hand — such 
as oats, apples or salt, Salt and sugar mixed in equal propor- 
tions, they are generally very fond of. Remember you must be 
patient and gentle in all your actions. Now touch him on the 
withers, gently, and gradually win his confidence so that you can 
handle and rub his neck and finally the head. Do not try to hold 
him or to impose the least restraint ; that would cause him to be- 
come excited and afraid of you. Fondle the colt in this way 
until he becomes reconciled to your presence, and will suffer you 
to scratch or handle him as you please. Now step back and take 
your halter quietly. The halter should be of leather. Rope halt- 
ers are objectionable, for young horses in particular ; they are so 
hard that they hurt the head whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt, 
the colt will instinctively try to get his head out of the halter, and 
the more he pulls the more it will hurt, because the tighter and 
harder it will pinch — which will frighten him the more — and he 
will try to free himself at all hazards, until he pulls himself down 
or possibly breaks the halter. In that case, his experience would 
have been a bad one, for you would have taught him to be a 
halter-puller. 

You should take the halter in the left hand, having unbuckled 
it, and approach the colt slowly ; don't be in a hurry ; give him 
time to smell and examine every part in his own way. While he 
is examining the halter, caress and rub him, and it will farther 
your efforts greatly to give the colt something he likes. Then take 
hold of the long strap which goes over the head, with your right 
hand, and carry it under his neck, while you reach the left hand 
over the neck and grasp the end of this long strap ; then lower 



18 



the halter just enough to get his nose into the nose-piece, and then 
raise it up to its proper place and buckle. This is the best method 
to halter a colt, if he is not extremely wild ; but if your subject 
is wild and nervous, the following method is much the best. 



Second Method. 

First provide yourself with a light pole, about ten or twelve 
feet long ; cut a notch in one end with your pocket-knife, and 
about fifteen inches from this end drive a nail in, the head bent 
a little towards the end having no notch. Next you want a good 
strong half-inch rope, about twenty or twenty-five feet long, with 
a slip-noose in one end and a knot in the rope about twenty inches 
from the end with the noose, so that it will not draw so tight as 
to choke the colt down, but will allow the noose to draw tight 
enough to shut off his wind to that extent as to prevent him from 
making a very obstinate resistance. Now get a short breast-strap, 
or a long haim-strap will do. This put in your pocket convenient 
to the right hand, for future use. Now approach the colt slowly 
and carefully, as before described, remembering that visitors must 
be excluded. If you are alone you can work faster and better 
than it is possible with company. When you succeed in ap- 
proaching to within four or five feet of the withers, retreat slowly, 
as before, and take your stick, previously prepared, holding the 
notched end from you, and swinging it very gently a little to the 
right and left in a horizontal position. This is a new object of 
fear to the .colt, and will be regarded with a good deal of suspi- 
cion. However, a little patience will soon enable you to get so 
near the colt that yon can hold your stick gently over the back 
and withers. Then gradually lower it, moving gently as before 
till the hair of the main is gently touched. As this is borne, let 
it drop a little lower until it rests upon the main. Now commence 
scratching the main .with a stick, gently but firmly. This will 
please the colt and cause him to stand still. While scratching 
with your stick in this way, slide your right hand slowly and 



19 

cautiously along its surface until you get to the mane, when you 
scratch with the hand in place of the stick. All this is proving 
to the colt that you will not hurt him — in fact, ; you please, and 
hence he submits quietly. Now step back to where your rope is, 
and take the noose and place it on your stick, letting it rest 
in the notch and on the nail, with the main part of the noose 
hanging below the stick, and large enough so as to be slipped over 
the head easily, while you keep the other end of the rope in the 
hand with the stick. Your halter or noose now hangs upon your 
stick so spread that you can put it over the colt's head without 
touching a hair. Your halter arranged, holding it before you 
swinging upon the stick, you approach the colt in the same cau- 
tious manner as before until you bring it to the nose. This being 
a new object of fear to the colt, he will smell of it cautiously. 
While he is smelling it, you are gradually raising it over his head 
— so gently, he does not feel or care about it, until you get it well 
back of the ears, then turn your stick and your noose will drop 
on his neck. If he does not start, take up the slack in your rope 
gently, at the same time approach his withers cautiously, and rub 
him gently if he will allow it. If he should endeavor to run 
away, keep hold of your rope. If he tries very hard to get away, 
he soon finds himself out of wind, caused by the pressure of the 
rope about the neck, consequently he will offer but a feeble resis- 
tance, and will very soon allow you to come up to him just as you 
please. Now you should use him gently. As soon as he will al- 
low you to approach, loosen the noose from his neck, and by kind 
words and caresses, let him know you do not wish to hurt him. 
Keep on gentling him till he will allow you to rub his neck, head 
and ears. Encourage him by feeding from your hand something 
that he likes. When he submits so far as to let you handle his 
head and neck, take the other end of the rope and tie a round 
hard knot in the end and another knot about twenty or twenty- 
five inches from the end. This knot should be left slack. Now 
take the end of the cord in the left hand, and carry it under the 
neck to the opposite side, while you reach over with the right 



20 

hand and take it and bring it over the top [of the neck again 
Now put the knot in the end of the cord through the other and 
secure by drawing it up as tight as possible. This is commonly 
called a cow knot. Now make a loop by drawing a double of 
the slack rope under the rope around the neck. Make the loop 
long enough to slip into the colt's mouth, which can be done 
easily by gently insisting on his confidence. A green colt is not 
bad about taking anything in its mouth, if you use judgment and 
do not frighten them. Slip this loop well up above the bridle 
teeth, and place the lip well over the jaw under the rope. Now 
draw up on your loop, and take the noose you first had about the 
neck, off entirely. Now take hold of the end of the cord. You 
will find you have a means of power in your hands that makes 
the strongest horse almost a plaything. And this we call the 
Spanish halter, and its value in managing and training colts can- 
not be over-estimated, when used with judgment and handled 
with adroitness and skill. It should never be used so harshly as 
to excite extreme pain, and yet with a touch that causes a fear of 
resistance. You now have on your colt your Spanish halter, and 
can control him almost at will. If he should endeavor to run 
away from you, give him a quick, sharp jerk ; at the same time 
say whoa ! and repeat as often as he may make the attempt to 
get away. When he stops, go up to him and caress and gentle 
him about the head and neck. When he gives up to the rope 
enough so that he does not try to get away, then proceed to learn 
liim to lead. With your rope in hand, step back to his side, op- 
posite his hips, and say " come here, sir," at the same time giving 
him a sharp pull on the halter. He will swing round towards 
you, and if he only takes one step in the right direction, let him 
know that was what you wanted. To make him understand that 
lie has done right, go up to his head, speak kindly to him, call 
him a oood boy, at the same time petting and caressing with the 
hand. Then walk round on the opposite side and repeat. En- 
courage him for every step taken in the right direction by caress- 
ing and kind words, and in a very short time he will come to you 



21 

at the word, and follow you around like a dog. If the colt is 
willful and stubborn, handle him with the Spanish halter until he 
will stand quietly, then take your strap, previously provided, in 
the right hand, holding by the buckle. Now commence Aising 
gently the fore leg next to you. If he resists your efforts, reprove 
him with the halter, and keep on caressing and rubbing the leg 
till you can take the foot in your hand ; then slip the strap around 
below the fetlock, putting the end through the keep on the inside of 
the buckle, draw it up tight so it will not slip up, then pass the strap 
around the arm, from the inside of the leg, and bring over to the 
outside and buckle. By putting him on three legs, he can offer 
but little resistance when pulled by the head sideways, and, as he 
does not reason, will come round as readily with his legs free as 
he will on three. Now step back on a line with the hips, holding 
the halter firmly, and say, " come here, sir." He, of course, does 
not obey, so you pull on the halter, and he is obliged to swing 
round to you. Now step to the other side and repeat ; bring him 
around by the halter each time, until when he hears the words, 
" come here," he will obey readily. As soon as the colt submits 
to this step, remove the strap from off the leg and rub the part 
gently where the strap has been. Now step back and sideways, 
as before, and say, " come here, sir." If he does not come read- 
ily, give him a sharp pull with the rope, which shows him you 
can handle him as well on four legs as you can on three, Now 
if he moves a little to obey, caress him, and so continue until he 
will follow you readily. 



How to Handle the Feet. 

After submitting sufficiently to lead well, caress and rub him 
on the withers, as at first, and, as soon as he will bear, work down 
the shoulder and leg ; then lift lightly on the foot ; if it is sub- 
mitted, rub it quickly and smoothly a few seconds, then put it 
down and take it again, and so continue until you can handle the 
foot as you please. The main point for you to consider is, that 



22 

you are to make the colt understand you will not hurt him, and 
to do this you must be gentle. Now place your hand on the 
withers and run it back over the side and hips soltly and quickly ; 
handle every part thoroughly as you work along towards the leg, 
and as the colt will bear, work the hands around the leg until you 
reach the foot. If there is no resistance, lift it up a little — just a 
little — and it there is no resistance, after letting it down, nib and 
gentle a little more ; repeat, each time lifting it up a little higher, 
until you can take it up and handle it just as you please. Should 
he, however, resist and jerk his foot away from you, you must re- 
sort to means to make him understand that resistance is out of 
the question. In tampering with the colt, you should have your 
Spanish halter on, as before described. Now take the long rope 
that you hold in your hand, put it around over the top of the 
horses head, just back of the ears ; then bring it down on the- 
right side of the head, and instead of passing it through the 
mouth, bring it under the upper lip and over the gums above the 
teeth, across the sensitive nerve ; now bring it up on the lelt side 
of the head, and pass it under the cord on that side ; now when 
you pull upon the cord, you have one of the most powerful 
means of controlling the horse that lias ever been invented. This 
we call the Double Spanish Halter. Now take the end ot the 
rope in your left hand, and proceed as before to handle his legs 
and feet If he stands quietly, use him gently ; but if he should 
resist, correct with your rope — by which you can inflict so severe 
a punishment that he will submit unconditionally in a very short 
time, and allow you to handle his legs just as you choose. Per- 
severe until you can hold the foot in your hand, moving it gently 
in the same way, then let it down and rub the leg until he gets 
over the fear inspired by the use of the cord under the lip. If 
more thorough treatment is necessary, see u Management ot Horses 
Bad to Shoe." m 

To Make a Colt Follow Under the Whip. 

Alter he comes round to you readily by pulling a little on the 



23 

halter, and follows freely, take your whip in the right hand, pull 
upon the halter a little, saying, " come here, sir," at the same time 
tap lightly with the w r hip over the hips. He will yield to you 
mainly because you have taught him to yield to a slight pull upon 
the head, and to come to you at this signal, and because he wishes 
to get away from the touch of the w r hip behind. As soon as he 
comes to you, caress and feed him something that he likes from 
your hand. Repeat this until he comes to you as readily by tap- 
ping with the whip as he did at first to the halter. Now, instead 
of hitting with the whip, commence by snapping it behind him. 
If he comes, caress and encourage him as before, and so repeat at 
each time, increasing the distance from him, until he will follow 
or come to you readily by cracking the whip. We give this 
method because it is simple, and, in our judgment, practicable to 
most any one, and will bring the desired result in a short time — 
indeed, so well as to make your horse follow you around the streets 
without halter or bridle. 



Teaching the Colt to Ride. 

First, halter-break the colt so that he will follow readily and 
come to you at the word. Then put on the double Spanish halter 
and have some one get upon his back. Then mount and dismount 
as long as he shows signs of fear. When he resists, correct with 
the Spanish halter ; and when he submits, caress him kindly. If 
he resists and does not come to time with this treatment, then 
strap up one leg, and he will not be able to offer much resistance ; 
when he submits, unstrap the leg. Then lead him a little at first, 
treat him kindly, and you will have no further trouble. If the 
colt is put through a regular course of treatment, as described in 
" Breaking with One Lesson," he may then be mounted and rode 
without any trouble. 

To Teach the Colt to Back. 

Put on the Spanish halter ; stand directly in front of your 
horse, having hold of the cord about twenty inches from the head 



24 

with your left hand, resting your right on the cord six or seven 
inches from the head, you now say, " back, sir." Your horse does 
not know anything about what you want, of course, and does not 
obey. Immediately after saying back, press down and back with 
your right hand sharply on the cord, which will set the head back 
with a jerk. Do not expect your colt to go back without a strug- 
gle of resistance. Repeat this four or five minutes, being careful 
not to get excited. .As a rule the colt will not go back with one 
lesson, probably not with the second, but will be sure to do so at 
the third lesson. The more intelligent and spirited the colt, the 
sooner he will submit, and the more ready his obedience. The 
duller and slower your subject the more patient and persevering 
must be your efforts. Another way to teach the colt to back, and 
the one that we usually adopt, is to first break him as described 
in " Breaking with One Lesson," page 28. Then put him before 
the cart and try and back him with the reins. If he resists, hav 
two or three men get hold of the cart and pull back ; then pull 
upon the reins and say " back," Don't expect too much at first. 
If he takes only one or two steps back, stop and caress, and he 
will soon back readily at the word. It is now time to commence 
bitting your colt. 



Bitting the Colt. 

Some people seem to have strange notions. It would seem as 
if the style and position of the head depended entirely upon the 
attention given to bitting. The object of bitting, it should be 
borne in mind, is to teach the horse to obey the rein, and, at the 
same time, habituate the horse to give the head and neck as higji 
an elevation as the form and temper of the animal will bear. But 
while it is admitted that careful attention to bitting will improve 
the style and bearing of the horse, it should not be forgotten that 
the position in which the horse carries his head in harness will 
depend almost entirely upon his form and temper. No art can 
give the horse with a low, perpendicular shoulder and short neck, 



25 

a fine style of carrying his head and neck — even if he possesses 
good courage and spirit. The practice of straining the head and 
neck into an unnatural position, and keeping it so for hours, as is 
practiced generally in bitting, is very cruel, besides being often a 
cause of injury. When the head is strained up into an unnatural 
position, and kept there for a long time, the colt will learn to re- 
lieve the pain and weariness he feels, by resting the entire weight 
of his head upon the bit, and which teaches him to lug upon the 
bit, and causes the mouth to become insensible to pressure. We 
will now explain what we regard as an improved method of bit- 
ting, which teaches the horse exactly what you require and does 
not injure the mouth in the least, and by which you can bit a 
horse well in about one hour : by limiting your lessons to five 
minutes and repeating until the head is rendered freely and read- 
ily to the purpose of the rein, seldom requiring more than six or 
eight lessons of five minutes each. We would never hit a colt 
until he has first learned to drive, as described on page 29. 



How to Make a Bitting Bridle. 

Take your Spanish halter, made exactly as before described 
with the exception of the loop that goes round the neck; that 
should be made large enough to fit over the neck rather tightly 
where the collar is worn. Now bring your cord through the 
mouth from the offside and bring back on the near side through 
the loop around the neck; now pull on this cord, and the head 
will be drawm back to the breast. Yon are now prepared to bit. 
Simply pull upon the cord a little which will draw the head 
back slightly; after holdiug for a short time, render loose; then 
draw a little tighter and tie with a single bow knot, that will 
loosen with a slight jerk. Now by slipping the cord back on 
the top of the neck, you will have as fine a curve of the neck as 
you may desire. Continued for four or five minutes; then stop 
bitting, and repeat at some future time. 

D 



26 

The great secret, not only in bitting, but of training the young 
horse in any manner, is in not confusing or exciting him to resis- 
tance by training too long. "When your colt yields readily to the 
bit, you can check the head to suit, Making the check rein 
rather tight causes the head to be carried high, while the deli- 
cacy given the mouth will prevent the nose being thrown for- 
ward. This method of bitting may be regarded with little favor 
by those not understanding its effects, but all we have further to 
say on the subject is, give it a fair trial. Teach your colt to be 
perfectly submissive to your handling, in every manner; to lead 
well; back freely at the word. You are now ready for the next 
step in his training, which is, usually, driving in harness. 



Training to Harness. 

Put on your harness carefully, which should be made to fit 
well, and great care should be used in having it safe and strong 
in every respect. Do not be tempted to drive your colt in an 
old rotten harness, or to hitch to an old rotten, rattling wagon, 
as such things are liable to give way at any time. Many of the 
accidents causing horses to become subject to bad habits, are the 
results of such imprudence. Let every step be made sure. 
Work safe, and yon are sure to bring about a good result. With 
your harness on, allow him to stand in his stall until he becomes 
somewhat used to the presence and presure of the different parts, 
and will allow you to rattle them about without his caring for 
them. Now lead him around for a short time, and as soon as he 
appears quiet, check him up loosely, and take down the reins 
and drive him around in the yard. When he becomes familiar 
with the harness, check and reins, and will stop and start at the 
word, and drive around to the right or left, you can drive him 
about the streets with safety; though in making this step, } r ou 
had better have your Spanish halter on for safety. You should 
then drive to sulky. We prefer a sulky at first. Let your colt 



27 

see and examine every part of the sulky until he cares nothing 
about it, then draw it up behind him, rattling and running it 
back and forth a few times, then attach the harness. Before 
starting him, back him up against the cross-bar of the shafts. If 
he should act frightened, speak to him calmly but firmly, at the 
same time holding your reins firmly, so as to prevent him from 
swinging round if he should try. Then go to him and rub and 
caress him until he gets over his excitement. Then run the sulty 
up against his haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle 
words, until you can shove the sulky against him just as you 
please, and he not care anything about it, Now you can get 
into your seat and drive him around wherever you choose with- 
out danger. Let him go slow at first, until he becomes familiar- 
ized with the objects that are new to him along the road, as he is 
not so liable to become frightened while going slow as when 
driven fast. 



Driving. 

When your horse drives well before a sulky, then you may 
hitch him to a light wagon, or by the side of another horse; and 
if you are breaking him for a farm or for hauling heavy loads, 
you can gradually increase his load until he will draw to the ex- 
tent of his ability without comprehending that he has the power 
to do otherwise. After your horse is sufficiently broke to the 
harness, you can either allow him to carry his head as nature may 
dictate, or by the proper use of the check-rein, bring his head 
and neck into such position of style as his form and temper will 
bear, or your fancy dictate. In teaching your young horse to drive 
well, do not be in a hurry to see how fast he can trot. Although 
your colt may be old enough to learn how to move well, and per- 
haps drive as gently as an older horse, he is not old enough to 
perform the work of an older horse fully matured. Require but 
little at first, gradually increasing as he develops in strength and 
hardens in his gait. Care should be taken to keep each pace 



28 

clear and destinct from each other. While walking he should be 
made to walk, and not allowed to trot. While trotting, as in 
walking, care should be taken that he keeps steadily at his pace, 
and not allowed to slack into a walk. When occasionally pushed 
to his extreme speed in the trot, he should be kept up to it only 
for a few minutes at a time, gradually requiring more as he be- 
comes practised and capable of endurance; and whenever he has 
done well he should be permitted to walk a* short time and en- 
couraged by a kind word. Under no circumstances should what 
is termed " his bottom" be tried and overdone. The reins while 
driving should be kept snug, and when pushing him to the top of 
his speed, keep him well in hand, that he may learn to bear well 
on the bit, as it is by means of the reins, mainly, that the horse 
when going at a high rate of speed is kept steady in his place. 
But while you should teach your horse to drive well to the pres- 
sure of the bit, be careful not to give him the habit of pulling too 
hard; for then he becomes not only unpleasant, but difficult to 
manage. The art of driving well cannot be taught by any writ- 
ten instructions. Practice and ingenuity in this respect can 
alone make a skillful horseman. Always strive to encourage, 
not drive your horse — and be careful not to whip only tor merited 
reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will cause the horse 
to plunge ahead every time he sees any unusual movement for 
it, or at any mishap that may occur. 

Great care should be taken not to drive the colt too much 
at first, and, at no time, to the extent of exhaustion. Be care- 
ful never to break his courage. There is tisually too much anx- 
iety to try a colt's speed and bottom. He is pushed, overdone, 
and spoiled, perhaps, befores he knows how to trot, or is grown 
to his full strength. 

How to Break the Colt in One Lesson. 

We usually break colts in one lesson, so that, with careful 
driving at first they will remain kind and gentle; and we think 



29 

it altogether the best way, when we can have the conveniences 
for doing it. We first put the colt through a regular course of 
handling, as described in "Subduing the Horse" page 31, until 
he freely submits, then caress kindly, thus letting him know that 
you are not going to hurt him, but that all you require is sub- 
mission. Now put the harness on him, and use a common 
single joint or snaffle bit. If he is vicious and you find it hard 
to control him with the common bit, we would use the double 
joint bit, as described on page 39, for a few moments, or until, 
we get control of the mouth. Tie the tugs tightly to the breeching, 
so that every time he steps he is drawing heavily on the collar, 
and at the same time pressing equally hard on the breeching. 
Then have a rope or strap tied into the turret rings, so as 
to form a loop or ring about two or three feet long, pass the 
reins through these loops. Now take the colt by the head, and 
lead him until he learns to w r alk with the collar and breeching 
pressing hard both forward and behind. And he is learning to 
draw and to hold back both at the same time. Now take 
the reins in yonr hands, and when you wish to turn the celt 
to the right or left, step to one side, so as to bring the rein the 
length of the loop from him. It then acts half-way between a 
lead and a drive. Now drive him carefully round the ring, 
and when you pull on the left rein, say haw! and on the right, 
say gee! being careful to stop and caress frequently. He soon 
becomes accustomed to the bit, and is easily managed, and if 
he attempts to turn round you have him completely under your 
control. The reins coming so low down that you have leverage 
across his hind parts, so that it is imposible for him to wind 
up in the lines. Pie must come to the right or left whenever 
you pull upon the reins, and he soon learns the utter impossi- 
bility of any successful resistance. And by accustoming him 
to the bit, in this way you get control of the mouth, and accomplish 
nearly all that is sought to be accomplished by the old method 
of bitting. Now put the reins in the turrets, and hitch the colt 
before the cart without quarter straps, as described in "Horse 



30 

Taming Ring" and drive him first one way and then another 
until he becomes accustomed to the thills, harness, &c, being 
careful to speak kindly, and caress him frequently. Now push 
the cart against his heels, until he does not care for it; which 
will be as soon as he finds that it is not going to hurt him. 
We would not attempt to teach him to back at this time, but 
leave that for another lesson. Let the colt rest for half an hour, 
and then drive him in the street, either single or double, or he 
may be driven immediately. Be very careful not to drive too 
far. Never break his courage by over-taxing his strength. 



Horse Taming Ring. 

We have an amphitheatre, built for breaking norses, with a 
board wall eight feet high and sixty feet in diameter, and covered 
with a canvas tent. This is for winter use. In summer we 
use a canvas side curtain* This is only for the convenience of 
moving easily. In the centre is the horse taming ring, about 
thirty-five or forty feet in diameter, made by setting posts and 
running ropes around. This ring is filled with saw dust, tan- 
bark, or straw, from three to six inches deep. It the ground 
is hard hard or frozen it would require more. 

The necessary fixtures are, first — A breaking cart, with very 
strong thills, — so strong that it is imposible for a horse to break 
them, try as hard as he may. Seconn — A good, strong, common 
buggy harness. Third — A throwing harness, made as follows: 
Have a strong surcingle made, about four inches wide, and six 
feet, six inches long. It should be made of good strong heavy 
leather, and should have a strong buckle at one end. Abo at 
four feet two inches from the buckle end have a ring attached 
for a back strap and crupper, like those on a common harness. 
Have a ring put into the surcingle about one foot from the buckle. 
This ring should be just right, so that when the surcingle is 
buckled on the horse, on the left side, the ring will come directly 



31 

opposite the left fore leg. Also have a ring put into the sur- 
cingle about a foot from the back strap, on the light side; now 
have a strap attached to the back strap near the crupper, and 
running to the ring on the right side of the surcingle. Fourth 
— A foot strap, made like a common hame strap, sxcept it is 
to be longer and stronger everyway. Such a horse taming ring 
may be erected in any barn, shed or other unoccupied building; 
or in a yard with a high board fence to exclude intruders. 
But it is better to be under cover, and should have a strong 
high post in the centre of the ring. But if a man has a horse 
to handle it is not absolutely necessary to have such a ring, 
but a smooth piece of grass free from sticks and stones is a good 
place, it out of sight, or most any place in the winter when 
there is snow on the ground. 



Subduing the Horse. 

To subdue and conquer the horse, and let him know that 
you are his master, you want to convince him that you are 
stronger than he is, in every place and position, and that he 
must submit to you in everything you require of him. To do 
this, you want to put him through a regular course of hand- 
ling that will convice him of your ability to manage him just 
as you please, while at the same time you demonstrate to his 
understanding that he cannot help himself, and must submit un- 
conditionally to your control. In the first place, then, give him 
a turn with the Spanish halter — making him stop at the word 
whoa ! and come to you at the word. When he submits to that, 
proceed still further in convincing him of your power and 
mastery by throwing him down. To do this, put on the throwing 
harness, as described in " Horse Taming Ring." Strap up the 
left fore leg by passing the strap around the fetlock, put the end 
through the loop, strap to the ring in the surcingle. Now draw the 
end of your cord or Spanish halter through the ring on the right 
side, bringing it over to the near side of the animal ; now take 



32 

the halter out of the mouth, thus leaving a plain loop around the 
horse's neck ; then take hold of your cord with the left hand and 
straighten it out. Now you have a plain double from the neck of 
the horse around to the ring on the right side ; you put this into 
the horse's mouth, and draw up the end of the cord with the right 
hand. You will observe that the cord runs straight through the 
mouth, instead of being in a loop, as in the Spanish halter. 
(Since writing the above we have invented a leather tube or bit 
tor the cord to pass through, which prevents injury to the horse's 
mouth.) Now you have him completely in your power ; you can 
handle him as easily as a boy could a top. Now step back the 
length of your cord away Irom him, (you are now at a safe dis- 
tance in case he should plunge and spring, and offer violent 
resistance, as is sometimes the case,) with the cord grasped firmly 
in your hand, say u lie down, sir," at the same time pulling stead- 
ily on the rope. His foot being fastened up he is easily thrown 
off his balance. He will gradually settle down on the knee of 
the near leg, when a quick pull w T ill bring him over on his side. 
Now you have him down, use him gently ; rub his head and neck; 
talk to him kindly, thus letting him know that your object is not 
to hurt him — that all you require is submission, and that you 
possess the abilty to enforce that. After letting him lie for awhile, 
make him get upon three legs, let him stand a moment, then put 
him down again. While down, handle his feet and legs as you 
please, and so contiuue until he will lie still and submit to you in 
everything you wish. Then take the strap off his leg and let him 
get up ; caress and rub his leg where the strap has been. 

We would call particular attention to this method of throwing a 
horse. It is the easiest and most expeditious way now known,and is 
accomplished without any danger to either the operator or the 
animal. Whatever may be the bad habit of your horse, it is a 
very good plan to give him a regular course of training, and by 
throwing a horse down, and handling him just as you please while 
down, you demonstrate to the understanding of the animal that it is 
worse than useless to try to resist control. It is the best way we 



33 

have ever found to handle nervous horses, that would not allow 
their legs handled. After handling gently while down, they find 
they are not hurt, and get over their fear, and will allow you to 
do with them as you like, anywhere. 



Kicking in Harness. 

Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, because ot the 
danger incident to the use of such horses. It is well to remember 
that this habit is in most cases the result of carelessness or mis- 
management. Proper attention is not given to the fitting of the 
harness ; the straps dangle about the flanks of the colt, unac- 
quainted with their nature, which frightens and causes him to 
kick. Or, what is more common, an old harness is used and 
breaks at some unlucky moment, which frightens the colt, and he 
kicks as a means ot seli-defense, when his feet and legs coming in 
contact with the whiffletree or cross-piece, causes him greater fright 
and he becomes reckless, springs ahead in a frantic endeavor to 
free himself from his tormentor, until he tears himself loose, or is 
stopped after being worried out with fright and exertion. Learn- 
ing fear and resistance in this way, he becomes alarmed at the 
least indication ot its repetition. This fear must be broken by 
familiarizing the horse with the causes of his fear, at a time when 
he is powerless to resist, and when he finds there is no danger of 
harm, he will cease resistance. In the majority of cases this habit 
is broken by our means of control, as described in " Subduing the 
Horse," page 31. When the horse gives up, and will allow you 
to handle his legs and feet as you please, and will submit to you 
in everything that you wish, then put the harness on him, and use 
a double joint or W bit, eight inches long, with the bars five and 
a half and two and a half inches long. With this kind of a bit 
on your horse, you want to drive him around your yard, occasion- 
ally saying whoa ! at the same time setting him back upon his 
haunches with the bit. In a very short time he will stop when 

E 



34 

you say whoa, without any pull on the rein ; then go up to him 
and caress him about the head and neck ; then take your whip 
and switch him around the hind legs and flanks lightly, and if he 
shows a disposition to kick or run, say whoa I sharply, at the same 
time correct with the bit. In your first lessons, use the bit with 
severity — thus demonstrating to the horse your determination and 
ability to enforce obedience, under any and all circumstances of re_ 
sistance. When you can drive him around with a whip at a trot 
and stop him at the word without using the rein, go to him again 
and pat and rub him to encourage him in well doing. Then 
attach a long cord to your reins, and start him away from you at 
a trot, letting him go as far as the length of your cord will per- 
mit without pulling on the bit, when you will say whoa. If he 
stops, go up and caress him, and keep on in that way until he 
will stop and start at the word, no matter how far away he is, so 
long as he can hear your voice. After you have him so well in 
hand that he obeys readily and willingly, take the reins in your 
hand and learn him to back, encouraging him by kindness when 
he does right, and correcting with the bit when he shows the least 
intimation to be rebellious and stubborn. When he will back at 
the word, back him against your buggy wheels, keeping an eye 
on his movements, and if he shows fear and a disposition to get 
away from it, do not force him against it at first, but drive him 
around and up to it, letting him smell and examine it until he 
becomes satisfied it is not going to hurt him ; then back him up 
to it again — right back against it — and if he is disposed to kick 3 
say whoa ! sharply, at the same time giving him a short, quick 
jerk witn the rein. By this treatment he finds that you still have 
the same power in your hands that has already controlled him so 
completely and easily, therefore he submits unconditionally. Tou 
can now proceed to hitch him up ; watch him closely, and if any 
thing should excite him momentarily, and he should manifest a 
desire to repeat his old habit, say whoa ! and if he does not obey 
instantly, set him back with the bit in a manner that shall leave 
no doubt of your ability to control him at will. If handled in this 



35 

way for a few times, he becomes convinced of the uselessness of 
resistance, and careful management for two or threee weeks will 
radically break the worst horse of this kind we ever saw. People 
have often expressed wonder at our success in managing kicking 
and runaway horses. They think the control the result of a pecu- 
liar gift, or that we use medicines or drugs of some kind. If such 
persons will reflect a moment upon the simple laws of the nature 
of the horse, they will see that we educate the head instead of 
the heels ; that we do control them perfectly and thoroughly by 
the word whoa. In breaking to the word, we use means that 
compel obedience. If your horse minds the word quickly and 
stops at your bidding, he is not going to do you or himself any 
damage by kicking ; for if you stop him whenever the old habit 
is brought to mind, and let him stand until the excitement is 
over, he will have no incentive for kicking, and in a short time 
will forget the habit altogether. We have handled some of the 
worst kicking horses in the States and Canada, and have always 
cured them of the habit in this way. We have never yet failed 
in a single instance. And if they ever returned to their old habits 
we never heard of it. We have had a good many so bad that 
they could not be used at all, and had not been harnessed for 
several years, and in one or two lessons, of one hour each, they 
have been perfectly cured, so that they have worked kind and 
gentle ever afterwards. 

Kicking Straps. 

There are several kinds of kicking straps in use, but we con- 
sider them of little importance, as the treatment described in 
" Kicking in Harness " seldom fails to break up the? habit entirely, 
if carried out with firmness and perseverance. The manner of 
putting on the kicking straps is as follows : First, buckle a strong 
strap, with a ring slipped on it, around each hind foot, just below 
the fetlock joint. Now put on the Spanish halter, (or perhaps a 
rope a little longer and stronger would be better,) but instead of 



36 

putting it around the neck, make a small loop in the end, just 
large enough to go over the lower jaw, then pass it over the neck 
and through the loop at the jaw, bringing it back between the 
fore legs and over the girt, and tie to the strap on one of the hind 
legs. Now tie a similar cord into the loop at the jaw, bring back 
in the same way and tie to the strap on the other hind leg. Your 
horse is now in position ; if he kicks, it is against his jaw, thus 
punishing himself. There may be danger of a bad kicker injur- 
ing his jaw in this way. To prevent that, and perhaps it would 
be better in any case, put on a strong, common rope halter, run it 
back and tie to the straps on the hind legs as before. Another 
style of kicking strap, and it is the only one that we would recom- 
mend at all is this : Take your Spanish halter, double it and 
place the center of the cord on the top of the head, bring it down 
on each side and through the mouth above the bits, then bring it 
upon the opposite side, and through the gags of the bridle, then 
back through the turrets on the saddle. Have a ring fastened to 
the back strap near the crupper, pass both ends of the cord 
through it, bring one end down on each side and tie to the shafts, 
or it may be brought back and tied to the whiffletree. Now, if 
your horse kicks, he jerks his head upward. This disconcerts 
him ; he cannot well raise head and feet at the same time. If 
preferred, a leather strap, made like a check-rein, may be buckled 
to the bridle, brought through the bit rings and gags, then back 
to the shafts as above ; or if the horse is not very bad the regular 
check-rein may be lengthened out and brought back in the same 
way and tied to the shafts, instead of being hooked into the terrett. 
In either case have it just tight enough so that the horse's head is 
checked up about as you would naturally drive him. 



The Runaway Horse. 

This is the worst and most dangerous of all the bad habits to 
which the horse is subject, and at the same time the easiest of all 



37 

to cure. All you have to do with such a horse is to learn him 
what whoa means. Some men seem to think that the horse is not 
to blame if he does run away when he is frightened. But if he 
runs once when he is frightened he learns that he gets the advan- 
tage in that way, and he will run the next time when he is not 
frightened. What you want is to make such a horse know that 
he must not run, even if he is frightened. He must be more afraid 
of the word whoa ! than of anything else. Handle with the 
Spanish halter, and by throwing the same as the kicking horse in 
harness, unless the habit is caused by fear of some object, such 
as an umbrella, buffalo robe or anything else that might frighten 
him and cause him to run away ; if that should be the case, when 
you have him down, take the frightful object — whatever it may 
be — around him, throw it on to him, at the same time rub and 
caress him ; let him know it is nothing that will hurt him ; then 
let him up, put it on or over him, rub him with it, and in that 
way familiarize him with it until he cares nothing about it. Then 
train him in harness with the "W bit on, until he will mind the 
word whoa. Make him run, and if he does not stop at the word, 
stop him by the bit so suddenly as to disconcert him and destroy 
his confidence completely. Let him know that he must stop at 
the word. Now tie a long cord to each rein, and start him off 
on the run, letting him go the length of the cord, and then say 
whoa ? and if he does not stop set him back with the bit in such 
a way as to convince him of your ability to control him, even at 
a distance ; or you may have another person in the buggy, who is 
not to say a word, or let the horse know of his presence, and when 
he gets a few rods away you say whoa 1 arid he sets him back 
with the bit. The horse will think it is you that is controling him 
and he will soon learn to stop at the word anywhere within the 
sound of your voice. Never say whoa I to such a horse unless 
you want him to stop. 

Although we have given a powerful means of coercion, and of 
impressing the horse of his inability to resist the power of man, 
still practical and thorough as those means are, they are of but 



38 

little account if not used with prudence and judgment. Men are 
too apt to depend upon main strength and stupid harshness for 
success in the management of horses. And with equal stupidity 
the basis of control we have here given may be made in the hands 
of some, a power to be abused with reckless disregard of conse- 
quences. Be Firm, Persevering and Prudent in the exercise of 
your power when it is necessary to impress your subject with a 
sense of mastery ; but be Gentle, Attractive and Affectionate 
when he is obedient and submissive. We find by experience that 
horses subject to bad habits are ungovernable in the mouth. If 
we govern the mouth well, we have, in almost every instance, a 
good control of the horse ; and it is an important requisite, under 
all circumstances, in the control of horses in harness. Then con- 
trol while driving until thorough and certain obedience is insured 
to the word. Strive to tell your horse exactly what you want him 
to do, and do not confuse him by attaching different meanings to 
the same word. It is quite common to say whoa ! when it is in- 
tended to go slower, or to attract the attention of the horse when 
standing, to let him know of your presence. Now if anything 
should happen, and you wished him to stop suddenly, he would 
not be likely to mind without a pull at the bit ; and why should 
he, as long as he has been learned in that haphazard way that 
whoa! meant anything and nothing at the same time? Such 
training confuses the horse so much that, though he is naturally 
obedient and tractable, he will become careless and obstinate* 
Have a distinct word for every command, and make him under- 
stand that every command must be obeyed. Speak in a natural 
tone of voice to your horse under all circumstances. Nothing 
confuses a horse more than screaming at him to have him hear. 
He is as acute in the sense of hearing as a man, and so sensitive, 
if nervous, as to have his pulse increased from six to ten beats a 
minute by one harsh word. Have your horse understand that 
things likely to frighten are harmless, and be sure not to whip for 
being frightened. If your horse is frightened at anything ap- 



39 

proaching, let him stand until it passes ; but hold the reins snug 
and firmly, or he may swing round and upset you. If cars are 
passing, and are regarded with fear, let your horse face them, but 
hold him immovable with the reins. Always, under such circum- 
stances, talk encouragingly to him; remembering; the slower you 
more him the more power you have over him. There is but little 
danger of a horse kicking after being stopped or while moving 
slowly, and so with the runaway. He will seldom make a second 
attempt at the time he has been foiled in his purpose or stopped. 
A horse frightened becomes reckless, consequently never raise an 
umbrella suddenly or unexpectedly behind a horse afraid of such 
things. First raise it at his head and gradually carry it back, 
and then, to make sure, if you have not a bit that will control 
your horse easily, put on a Spanish halter and carry it back in the 
wagon or buggy. Fear and anger is something that a good horse- 
man should never exhibit in his countenance or voice, as the horse 
is a close observer and soon learns to take advantage of such in- 
dications to become careless, or excited by anger, and may become 
aggressive or unmanageable. Let your lesssons be thorough, but 
not very long. Be gentle &nd patient with the colt, but make the 
willful, stubborn horse feel the full extent of your power. Make 
the old reprobate know that the only alternative is unconditional 
submission to your will; though if he should become too much 
heated and excited, it is prudent to stop, and repeat the lesson at 
some future time; but repeat until there is a thorough and uncon- 
ditional submission. After a horse submits, let your treatment be 
characterized by gentleness and good nature. 



Balky Horses. 

This habit is more perplexing to endure than any other the 
horseman has to overcome. The balky horse is usually high 
spirited, free in temperament, quick to comprehend, and sensative 
to causes of excitement. Kindness and patience would at first 



40 

have won him to a forgetfulness of the habit, but as an open and 
confirmed rebel, defying the powers of man to enforce submission, 
requires more than the patience incident to human nature to over- 
come. The balky horse is simply willful, and in breaking up the 
habit the object should be to convince him clearly, without resort 
to abuse or harshness, of your ability to enforce submission. We 
would here suggest that "an ounce of preventative is worth a 
pound of cure" in this and all other bad habits to which the horse 
is subject. Bad management is alone the cause of horses learning 
to balk. When the young horse balks in harness, it is not from 
any unwillingness to go, but from some confusion or excitement 
arising from some mismanagement. He is willing and anxious 
to go. perhaps, but too fast or too high spirited to make the steady 
push against the collar, necessary to move the load. Because he 
will not pull under such circumstances, he receives the curses and 
lash of the driver, which, not only make him mad, but discourage 
him, and he refuses to go. If your horse becomes confused and 
refuses to go ahead, do not, by any means, get mad and resort t© 
the use of the whip the first thing; for in such a case, ninety-nine 
times in a hundred, the use of the whip will only strengthen the 
tendency to resistance into open rebellion, which is just what you 
do not want. As a general rule, a little patience and a few en- 
couraging words will cause your horse to move on. But if your 
horse shows a decided tendency to resistance, get out and examine 
the harness carefully. Sometimes the collar is too large and hurts 
the shoulders, or perhaps the load is heavy, and you have forced 
your horse to draw until completely exhausted, and simply needs 
time to breathe before renewing the exertion. Consider circum- 
stances. Your horse cannot talk and tell you the cause of the 
difficulty. Go to his head and talk to him gently, and rub him a 
little. After rubbing the head and neck, (for a horse of this kind 
must be flattered and coaxed, as you would find it necessary to do 
with a stubborn child,) for all he needs is a little time, and the 
fit will exhaust itself, and you will have no bad impression making 
a starting point for the habit. Gently move the horse's head to 



41 

the right and left, to show him that he can move the load. At 
the same time touch him lightly on the fore leg, below the 
knee, with the toe of the boot, or with a light whip. After 
moving once or twice in this way, he will generally start and 
move on. After your subject moves well and safely, gradu- 
ally teach him to draw steadily, by first loading lightly and 
increasing as the horse will bear, until the habit becomes fixed and 
he will work cheerfully. In a good many instances when your 
horse balks, if you will sit right down and count one hundred with- 
out saying a word to your horse, then take the reins and turn him 
a little to the right and left, he will go off without further trouble. 
But for an old balker, that has the habit confirmed by long and 
successful resistance, it will be necessary to give him a more 
thorough and decided treatment. This is one of the most difficult 
habits to overcome, and most trying to the patience. There is 
nothing that makes one ache to use the whip vigorously more than 
dealing with a balky horse. But all horsemen agree that whip- 
ping does more harm than good. We once heard it said that 
whipping a balky horse was like striking a woman, where you 
knock one devil out you knock ten in. The following is a good 
way to manage a horse of this disposition: Tie the hair ot his 
tail togother in a hard knot, then take the halter-strap in your left 
hand, holding the tail in the right — pass the halter-strap through 
the hair above the knot and draw up as short as the horse will 
allow without running round, tying quickly. This will bring the 
horse in the shape of a half circle, his head fast to his tail by the 
halter-strap. Tour object is to break up his confidence in himself 
most thoroughly, and this is the most harmless yet most powerful 
of all means used to disconcert a horse on a practical basis. No 
horse can long bear up against the depressing influence of whirl- 
ing in connection with the proper use of the Spanish halter. The 
nearer the head is tied to the tail the better, for the shorter and 
quicker the horse will turn, and the better the effect. Should he 
not run round very freely, touch him behind with a whip, which 

F 



42 

will cause him to move sharply. Simply keep him moving until 
he falls down by becoming dizzy, which he will do in from one 
to two minutes. After lying a short time, untie the halter, when 
he will get up rather shaken in confidence; but one lesson is not 
sufficient if a bad case. Tie the head to the tail in an opposite 
direction, and " put him through" until he falls or is unable to 
move. By this time a " plucky" horse may become so warm by 
his exertion and struggles that he is not in condition to handle to 
advantage. If not too warm, however, put on your Spanish halter 
and give him a few sharp turns, to show him that you can handle 
him as well by the head as you can by whirling. When he fol- 
lows and submits in this way freely, put him in his stall, caressing 
and talking to him gently, so as to let him understand obedience 
is all you require, and that you are his friend. The great se- 
cret of subduing a horse is to handle him in such a manner as 
to impress him most powerfully with your supremacy without 
causing pain or excitement. This you can accomplish best by 
making your lessons short, and repeating after the horse has time 
to reflect. A man does not like to match himself against an ad- 
versary who has handled him roughly and with apparent ease, of 
superior strength and ability, after his mind becomes cool and 
the ascendency of reason prevails;, and so with the horse. If 
possible, do not continue his training while excited, and you will 
be surprised to find how soon he will yield submission. 

The most balky mule we ever knew was broken in this way by 
twice whirling. He worked true as an ox ever afterward. An- 
other way of managing a horse of this kind is to put them through 
a course of handling, as described in u Subduing the Horse," page 
31. We have known very bad balkers cured entirely of the habit 
in this way. Sometimes changing a horse, and working him on 
the other side will have the desired effect. 

But the plan that we have found most effectual in breaking up 
this habit is, to change the word and say whish ! If your horse 
balks, take him by the bits and pull a little to one side, and at 



43 

the same time touch him lightly on the fore leg with a light whip 
and say, whish ! He will generally start a little; then stop and 
caress him. After standing a moment do the same again, only 
letting him take one or two steps, when you say whoa ! Stop and 
caress, and never let him stop himself. He soon learns that you 
do not mean to hurt him, but all that is wanted to go ahead % 
"Whenever he shows a disposition to balk, don't let him stop of 
his own accord, but say whoa ! and, after standing a minute, say 
whish ! and he will generally start without any trouble. Do not 
let him know that he can stop of his own accord, but whenever 
you see an inclination to stop say whoa ! Don't jerk on the bit. 
Always drive a balky horse with a slack rein. Most balkers are 
made so by an injudicious use of the whip before they understand 
what is wanted of them. Never whip a balky horse in the har- 
ness. If you whip him at all, take him in the stable, and don't 
take a whip — he has had too much ot that already — but take a 
short piece of clapboard, slap him over the haunches, and say 

whish ! at every blow. This does not hurt, but it frightens him. 
He soon gets so that he jumps at the word, and, when you have 

him in the harness, if you say whish ! he is ready to " skedaddle." 
We have never found a balky horse that we could not make work 
after a few lessons of this treatment. 

If your horse balks double, a sure way to start him is to take a 
strong, half-inch rope, about fifteen or twenty feet long, place the 
center of it under the tail in the place of the crupper, give it a 
twist, or tie a single knot in it to keep it in its place, then bring it 
forward through the inside terret ring and over to the hame ring 
of the other horse. Have the rope just long enough to be a lit- 
tle slack when he keeps up his end. If he falls back or refuses 
to go, the other hcrse has him by the tail in such a way that he 
will be very apt to come to time. We would repeat, never whip 
a balky horse; it only makes a bad matter worse, and does no 
good except to gratify your own feelings. If your horse still re- 
fuses to go,put on your double Spanish halter, and fetch him first 



4A 

to the right and then to the left with a sharp jerk. He will be 
very like to throw himself and refuse to get up. If so, take a dish 
of cold water and dash it into his nose. This will usually bring 
him to his feet at once. Then apply the Spanish halter again 
sharply. We have had horses of this kind that would hold out 
for two or three hours. But we never failed to conquer them in 
the end. The worst we ever had of this kind was in Toronto, a 
mare fourteen years old that had been handled by J. S. Rarey, and 
all of the horse tamers that ever came along, and had beat them 
all. She never went a rod in the world with the harness on. She 
was good to ride under the saddle, but couldn't be rode a step with 
the harness on. It took us over two hours to conquer her. But 
she has worked all right ever since. 



Necessity of Familiarizing to Objects of Fear. 

As we are taught, there are no effects without causes, and as the 
horse becomes fearless and confident so far as he understands there 
is no cause for fear, we should remove the cause of mischief as 
much as possible, by complying with those laws of his natare by 
which he examines an object, or determines upon its innocence or 
harm, and this is the more necessary in his early training, since 
first impressions are strong in the horse, and once learning sus- 
picion, perseveres tenaciously to the apprehension of danger when 
once excited. "Whatever the horse understands to be harmless, he 
does not fear; consequently great attention should be given to 
making him examine and smell of such as would be likely to frigh- 
ten him in after life. A horse will never become satisfied in regard 
to an object that startles or frightens him by looking at it, but if you 
will let him approach it slowly and examine it in his own way by 
smelling it and touching it with his nose, he will very soon be 
satisfied it is not going to injure him, and he will care no more 
about it, and will never after frighten at it, however frightful it may 
be in appearance. 



45 
Objects of Fear. 

In driving be careful about using the whip tc$> freely. If a stone 
or a stump, or anything of the kind, should be regarded with fear, 
do not attempt to drive the horse by. Let him stand a short time 
and look at the object until he seems careless about it, then push 
a little closer, as be will bear, and so repeat — at the same time 
talking to him encouragingly, until you can drive him up to the 
object. Be sure to have your colt fully comprehend that such 
objects are harmless, as opportunity offers in this way, and he will 
soon become so fearless and confident as to be regardless of such 
things; but if you whip him for becoming frightened atsuch things, 
he will associatiate the pnnishment with the object of his fright, 
and be more frightened next time he sees it. The horse being un- 
able to reason only from experience, you should convince him by 
careful examination that the object is harmless. For example, if 
the sight or smell of a robe at a few feet distant should frighten him ? 
put on your Spanish halter and take him alone into your training 
yard or barn, lead him gently to the robe, let him smell of it if he 
will, then -take it in your hand, hold it gently to his nose, then 
rub it against his neck, side, and over his back, and so repeat for 
a short time, and he will become so regardless of it, that after be" 
ing familiarized to it in this way — you can throw it over his back, 
or tie it to his tail, without causing him the least fear. 

To familiarize a colt to a drum, the same principle is to be ob- 
served. Let him touch it with his nose, then rub it against his 
neck and side, then place it on his back, now tap it gently with 
the fingers, gradually increasing as he will bear it, and in a short 
time you may play upon it quite smartly — even while resting on 
his back, and he will care nothing about. The same with the 
umbrella. Let him touch it first with his nose, while closed, then 
rub it over his head, neck and body, then commence at the head 
again, open the umbrella a little right under his nose, and thus 
accustom him to it until you can hold it, fully spread, over his 
head, and over and about him in any manner, and in a short time 



46 

he will not mind it Teach him that a newspaper, though it is 
white and rustles, is harmless, by rubbing him with it, throwing 
it upon him like a Manket, dragging it about on the ground, and 
riding him about with it in the hand. In breaking the colt of be- 
ing afraid of any object aiways have on your Spanish halter, and 
in bad cases put it on double. Then correct him at the mouth, 
when he resists, but be sure and caress him kindly when he sub- 
mits. And always remember that you must familiarize your 
horse to the object from every point of view. For instance, you 
may be able to show him an umbrella or robe on one side, and he 
will be just as afraid of it as before if approached on the other 
side; or he may allow an umbrella to be raised over his head, but 
if it is raised behind him he will be frightened; consequently you 
must first let him smell of it to convince him of its harmlessness, 
and then show it to him on every side and position until he ceases 
to regard it with fear. 

To accustom your horse to the cars, lead him to the depot and 
have him see them at rest and examine them carefully, even to 
smelling and touching with the nose. Then allow him to see them 
move as you have an opportunity. When you undertake to famil- 
iarize a colt or a horse to anything that frightens him, be sure and 
repeat your lesson until he cares nothing about the object. If you 
do not, the experiment will be of little advantage to your horse; 
in fact, it may render him worse. If your horse is afraid of the 
cars and you are in a place where they are going to pass near, 
get out of the wagon and take your tie strap and loop it around 
under the jaw of the horse and grasp it firmly with the hand close 
to the head; then while the cars are passing shake his head vig- 
orously with short jerks so as to attract his whole attention to his 
mouth, and he will pay but little attention to the passing cars* 
A horse is so constituted that he can only think of one thing at 
a time. 



47 

To Train a Horse to Stand When Getting Into a 

Carriage. 

There are many horses that are very gentle after starting, but 
will not stand for you to get into the carriage. Such will some- 
times rear up and start very suddenly; or, if stopped, become ob- 
stinate and stubborn, and refuse to go when required. This habit 
is usually brought about by the mismanagement of thoughtless 
or ignorant drivers, in being hasty and harsh to a horse naturally 
ambitious but sensitive and impulsive. The naturally intelligent 
and tractable colt is taken from the field and harnessed up with- 
out regard to consequences. If he goes off gently, he is regarded 
as mild and gentle ; but if he is restless, and does not go when 
required to, he is whipped, kicked and abused. The colt does not 
know what he is whipped for, and the result is he becomes stub- 
born and mad. If he goes it is with a reckless, rearing plunge, 
or he settles back and refuses to move. Such a horse learns either 
good or bad habits very readily, and is either very good and obe- 
dient — if well managed — or willful and stubborn to the last degree 
— if to the contrary. The first step in the management of such 
a horse, if a bad one, is to show him that his willfulness must 
yield to superior power. This you can best do by managing him 
as follows : 

Put him through a regular course of handling, as described in 
" Subduing a Horse," page 31. Get a whoa ! on him as described 
in " Kicking in Harness," page 32. By this time your horse is 
thoroughly convinced of your ability to handle him under all cir- 
cumstances. Now put on the harness and hitch to the carriage. 
This should be done inside the barn if possible, with the doors 
closed. Have on the Spanish halter. Ascertain in the first place 
if he is afraid of the carriage. Back him against it, and bring 
him up to it, letting him examine it on all sides. Let him eat oats 
out of a measure set in the carriage. If it is a top buggy, raise 
and lower the top until he does not care for it. If he shows signs 
of fear, punish him by a slight jerk on the Spanish halter, and say 



48 

whoa ! He has probably learned by this time that whoa ! means 
to stand still. Work in this way until he will stand quiet 
and allow you to get in and out the buggy, handle the reins? 
etc. Then lead him out of the barn, pat and rub him on the head 
and neck, oblige him to stand, for he will not run over you. Then 
walk ahead slowly, stopping occasionally to caress and encourage 
him. In a short time you will find your horse will stand quietly 
for you to get into the buggy. For a few times after hitching, do 
not attempt to get into the buggy immediately before starting. 
Walk ahead, ask him to follow a short distance, and if he shows 
a desire to crowd on to you too fast, set him back with the Span- 
ish halter. We have broken very bad horses of this stamp in four 
or five lessons by the halter alone ; but the above method is more 
thorough. Always move your horse slow for some distance after 
hitching, and be very careful about using the whip at such times. 



Kicking and Pawing in the Stall. 

This habit is easily broken up. First, put on a good strong sur- 
cingle, with two rings slipped on to it, coming under the belly. 
Then take a short strap with a ring attached, and buckle around 
each foot below the fetlock. To these short straps on the forward 
feet, attach another strap, which bring up and pass through the 
rings on the surcingle and back to the rings on the straps on the 
hind legs. With this attachment on each side, the moment the 
horse kicks he pulls himself upon his knees, which he will be very 
careful not to do but a few times. Let your horse stand in his 
stall in this way until there is no disposition to renew the habit. 
Or, if your horse backs out of his stall and kicks at the back of 
the stable, swing a plank (about 2x8, pine, is heavy enough,) by 
ropes from the top of the stall ; let it hang about on a line with 
the horse's hams. It should hang about twenty inches or two feet 
behind the horse when he stands in his proper place in the stall. 
When the horse backs up to kick, his haunches come in contact 



49 

with the plank, and he will kick, and when he kicks, the plank 
swings back and up, but when the hind parts of the horse come 
down, the plank swings back to its place and slaps him on the 
haunches. He will be very likely to kick again, but with the 
same result, and he is disconcerted and beaten on his own ground^ 
and will be careful how he backs out of his stall to kick in future; 
in fact it punishes him so severely every time he attemps it that 
he is very careful how he throws up his hind parts anywhere after- 
wards. We have broke the worst stable-kicker we ever- saw in 
one day with the plank, arranged as described above. 

If your horse kicks with one foot, take a piece of trace chain, 
about one foot or eighteen inches long, run a hame strap through 
the end link, and buckle it around his foot, leaving the other end 
loose. When he attempts to kick he will whip himself with the 
chain, and soon stop it. If a horse paws in the stable do the same 
with the fore feet. If he kicks with both hind feet, put chains on 
both. Sometimes after you have fed your horse his oats, as you 
pass out of the stall, he will kick at you with one or both feet. 
To cure this habit put on the Spanish halter, bring the end back 
between the fore legs and fasten to the hind foot with a strap, as 
described above. Now if he attempts to kick he only kicks against 
his jaw, and soon stops. 



Kicking While Grooming. 

Such a horse is always nervous, excitable, and frequently very 
thin-skinned, and the currycomb hurts him, making him kick. If 
you have a very bad horse with this habit confirmed, it may be 
necessary to put him through a course of handling, as described 
in " Subduing the Horse," page 31. Then put on the Spanish 
halter, and, holding it in your hand, take the currycomb and be- 
gin at the neck, gradually working back carefully towards the 
places where he is tender. If he resists, or shows any signs of 
kicking, jerk upon the cord and say whoa ! If he submits caress 

G 



50 

him, and show him that you are not going to hurt him if he only 
stands still. Rub very lightly, and never use a sharp currycomb 
on such a horse. Some horses will not submit to the currycomb 
at all, unless it is an old one with the teeth nearly worn off. Use 
a brush mostly on a horse of this kind. If the horse is not very 
bad, you can break it up with the Spanish halter alone. 



Halter Pulling, 

A horse of this kind can never be trusted. If you leave him 
for a few minutes you are not sure of finding him on your return. 
There have been various ways adopted to cure the horse of this 
bad habit. One says run the halter-strap through the hole in the 
manger and tie to a rope, which is passed through a pulley over- 
head, with a weight attached to the other end; when the horse 
pulls, instead of breaking the halter as he expects, he only raises 
the weight. Another way is to pass the rope through the hole in the 
manger, or through the post if in the street, bring back and tie to 
his hind foot. Then if the horse pulls, he is only pulling his foot 
under him, and soon gives it up. The best way that we ever found 
to break up this habit is to take a strong half-inch rope, about 
twenty feet long, double it so that one end will be about six or 
seven feet longer than the other. Now pass it under the tail in 
place of the crupper, cross it over the back, bring down on each 
side and tie on the breast with a square knot, or some other knot 
that will not slip. You have now one end of the rope six or seven 
feet long. Put on your halter, take out the halter strap and put 
in some old rotten strap or rope, that you are sure he can break. 
Have it strong enough to require some effort to break it. Bring 
the end of the cord- through the halter ring and tie to the post. 
Then tie the old halter-strap so as to be about a foot shorter 
than the cord. It wants to be just right, so that when he breaks 
the strap he will come back a little before he draws on the cord. 
When all is ready throw something in his face and make him 



51 

pull. As he comes back he breaks the strap and thinks he is 
loose; but finds himself brought up by the tail in a way that he 
did not expect. We have never known a horse to pull over two 
or three times in this way before giving up, and never pulling 
again. The worst halter puller we ever knew — so bad that he had 
to be tied with a log chain around his neck — was broken in this 
way in just three minutes by the watch and was never known to 
try it again. 



To Make a Past and Slow Horse Work Together. 

You may have a nervous and excitable horse which you are 
obliged to work by the side of a slow one. Such a team is very 
uncomfortable to drive, and the whip has very little effect on the 
slow horse, while it excites the other, makes him fret, and some- 
times he becomes almost unmanageable. A team of this kind 
should be kept in separate stables, entirely out of hearing of each 
other, or at least separated while you are training them. 
Now go to the nervous horse and commence grooming him, saying 
" whish !" in a soothing tone, and as you brush him off, keep saying 
whish ! whish ! ! Then hitch him up single, say or use the same 
word to steady him down, and he soon learns that whish ! means 
steady ! quiet ! Now go to " Old Pete" and take a short piece 
of clapboard (this will not hurt him but only frighten him,) slap 
him over the haunches, and saj^ whish ! in the same tone as above, 
or take a whip and every time you hit him say whish ! until he 
learns that whish I means double quick. Then hitch him single 
and train him for a while, and every time you hit him with the 
whip say whish ! until he has thoroughly learned that unless he 
starts immediately after the word he will receive punishment. 
We will now proceed to put the two horses together. Whish { 
means to the nervous one, steady, quiet ! while to " Old Pete" it 
means get out of this as fast as possible I Horses of this kind, 
after such a lesson, will drive comfortably together. It will, per- 



52 

haps, be necessary to repeat this lesson for a number of times. 
At your option you may adopt any other word, such as steady ! 
hey ! etc. 



Bad Biters. 

Put on the Spanish halter, double loop, and chastise severely 
if he attempts to bite. Be on your guard and every time he at- 
tempts to bite give him a sharp blow on the nose with the fist or 
a stick, and at the some time yell at him in such way as to make 
him think you are going right through him. A few severe lessons 
will cure him, unless an old stallion that is confirmed in the habit, 
which no amount of training will break it up. Castrate or sell 
him at once. 



Cribbing. 

There has been a difference of opinion about cribbing, some 
calling it a habit, and others a disease. And it has always been 
considered incurable. There are two kinds of cribbers, — one may 
be called wind suckers. They will lay the nose across the manger 
or fence, and by sucking in air and swelling out the throat make 
a disagreeable noise. To cure this take a piece of old leather 
strap, six or eight inches long, and drive some eight ounce tacks 
in it, and fasten it on top of the throat latch of the bridle with 
a piece of twine or waxed end, and buckle just tight enough so 
the tacks will not prick him when he holds the head in a natural 
position, but when he cribs and swells out the throat the tacks 
prick him and he stops at once. 

The other kind, which takes hold of the manger with his teeth 
— the biting cribers— may be cured as follows : Take a common 
sewing awl and make five or six incisions in the first bar of the 
roof of the horse's mouth to the depth of an inch and a half. The 
mouth will become inflamed and remain so for three or four days. 



53 

While it is so inflamed the horse will not, or cannot crib ; and by 
the time the mouth gets well he will have learned that he gets 
hurt every time he cribs, he will be very careful how he tries it 
again. If an old, inveterate cribber, the lesson will have to be 
repeated once or twice; but this is necessary only in very bad 
cases. 



Putting the Tongue Out of the Mouth. 

Have fitted a piece of thin sheet iron, about two inches wide 
and four and a half inches long, with the ends made rounding, 
and the whole filed nice and smooth. Drill two small holes 
about half an inch apart near each edge at the centre. Fasten 
it through these holes on top of the bit with a piece of small an- 
nealed wire. Shorten the check pieces of the bridle, so that the 
bit is drawn well up in the mouth. This piece of iron is now over 
the tongue, making it impossible for the horse to get the tongue 
over the bit. Keep on this bit for two or three weeks, when the 
horse will become habituated to carrying the tongue under the 
bit and keeping it in his mouth. If the tongue should be put out 
of the mouth, though kept under the bit, take a piece of thick 
leather about three inches wide and five or six long, drive four 
ounce tacks through the lower edge and end, so that the ends 
will extend through about a quarter of an inch. Fasten this on 
the inside of the bit, with the end extending down, outside the 
mouth. 

Now as the tongue is put out, it is pricked by the tack, and the 
horse will be afraid to put it out after a few trials. Any method 
by which the tongue can be kept from being put over the bit, or 
if put out under, of causing pain when put out, will break up the 
habit. Sometimes simply hitting the tongue at each time of put- 
ting it out, with the end of a whip will do. 

The best of all, is to have a bridle with a straight bit, with two 
loose rings upon it. One of the rings is to come on each side of 



54 

the mouth whan the bridle is on. Have a strap attached to the 
top of the bridle coming down over the forehead and dividing just 
below the eyes, and one part coming down on each side and 
attached to the loose rings of the bit. Buckle the strap just tight 
enough to keep the bit in the roof of the mouth, so that it is im- 
possible for the horse to get his tongue over it, and the thing is 
done. 

To Prevent a Horse from Breaking While Trotting. 

Have some strong hock straps made, to buckle above and below 
the hock, joined in the center with a ring, one for each hock. 
Now put on a rope halter, and bring the stale down between the 
fore legs 9 and attach a large ring to it, just back of the girth. Or 
instead of the ring, have a cringle attached, such as sailors use, 
for a rope to pass through. Now take a small half-inch rope, tie 
one end into the ring in one hock strap, pass in through the ring 
in the halter stale, and back to the ring of the other hock strap. 
Tie it just right, not too tight, but so that the horse can travel 
easily; and as the horse trots, the rope will pass backward and 
forward through the ring of the halter at the girth. But just the 
instant he breaks his trot, and throws out both legs together, he 
jerks upon his nose and disconcerts him, and causes the horse to 
again strike a trot. After two or three lessons he is afraid to 
break; and the more he is pushed or excited the faster he will 
trot; and will not dare to gallop, for fear of again being jerked 
heavily at the nose by the halter. The rope passing from the hind 
legs through the ring, must be long enough to give the horse all 
the room he wants for fast trotting, or the rope will heat and 
break. 



Getting Cast in Stall. 

Drive a staple into a beam, or the floor directly over the horse's 
head, as he stands in the stall, to which attach a strap or piece of 



55 

small rope of sufficient length to extend to within fifteen inches 
of the floor. Before retiring for the night attach the other end of 
the cord or strap to the top of the halter, making it just long 
enough to allow the horse to put his nose to the floor. Being now 
unable to get the top of his head to the floor he is prevented from 
rolling, and if he is unable to roll he cannot get cast. 



To Add Style. 

Put on the Spanish halter^step in front, holding the cord in the 
right hand, give a slight pull. The horse will usually throw the 
head up, as the effect of the restraint is back and upwards, but if 
the nose is given back toward the breast, reverse the pull by 
throwing the hand up. Repeat this until the head is thrown up 
promptly to the least pull, either on the cord or halter. 

By making this lesson thorough, the horse can be so fixed in 
the habit of throwing the head up, by being pulled upon, that 
while driving, the head can be thrown up at will, by giving a 
short pull on the reins. 

Throwing the head up gracefully, when pulled upon with the 
reins or by the halter, is a part of the object of bitting. 

If the nose is thrown out, pull down and back steadily, but 
firmly. As the horse yields give loose and caress, repeating until 
the mouth is given back promptly. In driving to harness have 
the martingales a little short, using them so until the mouth is 
submitted to restraint easily and naturally. Now gradually add 
more style, by pulling on the reins a little, and repeating as the 
head is lowered in the least, until it is not only brought up, but 
back as required. If not successful in this, put on the bridle as 
before, and work up with it until successful, then gradually, while 
driving, bring the head up with the control of the reins. 

If your horse carries his head too low, or has too much curve 
to the neck, as is sometimes the case, until the head is almost 



48 

upon the breast, have a bridle made with overdraw checks,which 
are light straps running from the bit over the head. This bridle 
is made with loops or open places on the top of the head for the 
overdraws to pass through, bring them back and attach to the 
regular checks with a buckle, the same as you would attach the 
inside line of the double harness. Now, by tightening up the 
overdraw you can bring his nose out into any desired position. If 
you have a team that does not carry their heads alike, put on a 
pair of bridles, made as above, and by adjusting the overdraws 
you can bring their heads into exactly the same positions, which 
is very desirable for a fancy team. 



Hints on the Bringing Up and Management of Horses. 

First. Never allow your men or boys to leave up a couple of 
bars when you turn out your horse to pasture, for by so doing you 
will give them the first lessons in jumping. You want to avoid 
everything that will in any way give your horse the first lesson in 
forming a bad habit. 

Second. Never allow yourself, or any one else, in turning your 
horses into pasture, to hit them with the halter, strike with a 
whip, or make any motion as if you wanted them to get out of 
your way. A few lessons of this kind will make your horse bad 
to catch in pasture, which is very annoying and a great trial to 
your patience. Always treat your horse as if you liked to have 
him close at your side, and he will love to be there. 

Tuikd. Alw r ays reward your horse for doing right. Never speak 
short or cross to him unless it is to force obedience* The more 
kindly and gently you act to yonr horses, the more they will like 
you, and the harder they will try to please and obey you. 

Fourth. Never work or drive a horse until he loses his courage. 
If you do, you spoil him forever. For instance, a farmer had a 
span of very large fine colts. He r had broken them to work well 
by the side of other horses, but had never tried to hitch either of 



57 

them single. So one hot day in July, having worked them double 
all day in the harvest field until they were wet with sweat and 
their strength almost used up, said he : " While these colts are so 
tired, it will be a good time to break them to single harness." 
Although remonstrated with by his hired man, he insisted on 
hitching the largest and best one into a buggy, and drove him 
without rest, sixteen miles on a hot July night. "When the colt 
came back he was so completely exhausted that he staggered 
from side to side, and could scarcely get into the barn. The 
farmer thought he had done wonders and broken his best colt to 
go in single harness. When the next morning came, ho hitched 
him up again to the buggy, but the colt would not stir a step, and 
would never afterwards work in single harness, and was one of 
the worst balkers in the country. The other one, after a good 
night's rest, was hitched up by the hired man to a buggy, and 
after a short time worked as well single as double, and was a 
true and kind horse ever after. While the one that had his 
courage all broken down was never good for anything. You can- 
not be too careful on this point if you want a true and faithful 
team. 

Fifth. Always be careful in using the currycomb, and don't dig; 
in as you would with a hoe among weeds. Your horses, many of 
them, have thin skins and are Yevy ticklish, so that they will not 
bear the currycomb unless used very gently, and particularly 
about the legs. For such an animal, wash the legs with soft 
water and soap, and then rub dry with straw, and you will have 
no trouble, and your horse's limbs will get stronger every day. 

Sixth. If you want your horse to last long, do not check him 
too high. Give him the free use of his head and neck. Just think 
how you would feel to work all day with a straight jacket laced 
up tight around you. 

Seventh. A manger should never be higher than the knees. 
Many a fine horse has been knee sprung and become a cribber by 
feeding in a high manger. 



58 

Eighth. Never take a colt or a horse to a blacksmith to be shod 
until you have first handled his feet yourself and convinced him 
that he is not going to be hurt. Many a fine colt has become a 
confirmed kicker by mismanagement in the blacksmith's shop. 

Match horses with reference to size and motion particularly ; to 
to color if you can and have the other requisites. 

In going up hill stop your horse frequently and let him take 
breath, particularly at the top. 

Never let a horse stand facing a cold wind, particularly if he 
is warm. Many persons will drive until the horse is all in a per- 
spiration, and then if a light blanket is thrown losely over him, 
they think they have done all that is required. The breast, which 
is the most sensitive part, is left unprotected. 

Use but a few words with a horse, but have them understood; 
and never say whoa ! to a horse unless you want him to stop; the 
same with all other words of command. If a horse learns that 
a word means anything, or nothing at all, he is only confused and 
never knows what is required of him. 

Be always prompt and earnest, but not harsh; and be sure that 
the horse fully comprehends what is required of him. 

All ways encourage and caress your horse for doing right; and 
punish only for doing wrong. 

Win the confidence of your horse by kindness. Let him feel 
that you are his best friend, and he will soon associate with your 
presence a feeling of protection and security; and his service be- 
comes a pleasure instead of being a burden. 

If a horse is running away, it is always safer to remain in the 
wagon than to jump from it. 

If your horse is warm, give him but little water, unless he is to 
be moved. 

If your horse is sick use common sense and reason. Don't 
bleed and blister him or pour down such medicine as every ignor- 
ant bystander may recommend. 



59 

There is more horses killed by the injudicious use of medicine 
than there is benefitted by it. 

If you don't know what the trouble is, put him in a clean, quiet, 
well- ventilated stall, give him good nursing and leave the rest to 
nature. It is better to let him die a natural death than to murder 
him with poisonous drugs. 

Shoes should be reset once in from four to six weeks. Don't 
allow the smith to pair away the heels any more than is necessary 
to give a level bearing, and on no consideration allow him to 
apply a hot shoe to the foot. The nails should be small and 
driven well forward. Never allow the smith to wrench off the 
shoes without first raising the clinches. 

The foot should always be well pared at the toe and the shoe 
set well out under the edge of the hoof at the toe, so as to get 
the full bearing of the crust upon the shoe. 

Don't whip your horse for shying, or being afraid of any 
object in the road. That only conveys to his mind an idea that 
you are afraid of it too, and wish him to get away from it as fast 
as possible. 

Never pat and caress your horse when he is doing wrong. 
Many horses have been made baulkers in that way. They have 
also been made bad to shoe. The first time the horse is shod, if 
he kicked the smith, the owner has stood at his head and 
caressed him, as much as to say that is right,'.kick him again. A 
good many horses have become confirmed in various bad habits 
in the same way. 

A horse is said to be of age at five years old, when he is sup- 
posed to have attained his full strength. Previous to that time 
the horse is called a colt, and the mare a filly. They should never 
be put to severe labor under five years of age. 

A young horse should never be left to stand in the street with- 
out hitching, or an old one, if he is at all nervous or excitable. 

If your horse should commence to kick from any cause, while 
you are driving, don't throw away the reins and jump out of the 



60 

wagon, but give him short, sudden, raking jerks upon the bit to 
attract his attention to the head, you thus take it away from his 

heels. 

If your horse becomes unmanageable and runs away, keep a 
firm hold upon the reins and endeavor to keep him in the middle 
of the road. 

Never allow yourself to get angry at your horse, no matter what 
he may do to you. 

Never go near a bad horse if you are afraid of him, he will 
know it and take advantage of it before you acknowledge it your- 
self. 

Never undertake anything with your horse unless you are sure 
you have the ability to carry it out. 

Have your stable light and well ventilated, and never leave a 
pile of fomenting manure in or about the stable, affecting the 
health of your horse by their unwholesome vapors. 

Remember a good grooming is better for your horse than extra 

feed. 

Feed regular; and if your horse has to perform an extra day's 
work, don't give him an extra feed just before starting. If given 
at all let it be the night before. 

Keep the stable clean, and don't stow the bedding under the 
manger 1o act as a noctious smelling-bottle to the horse's nostrels. 

Keep your horses feet clean by frequent washings and don't 
pack them with cow-dung or other filth, as they possess no value 
except the moisture they contain. 

Remember the frog of the foot acts, not only as a spring, but 
as a sponge to take up moisture to keep the foot in a healthy state. 
If they become dry and hard from standing on a dry floor, bind 
a wet sponge upon them, or several thicknesses ot wet cloths. 

Give less long oats and more short ones. Team horses gene- 
rally get too much whipping and too little care and attention. If 
a horse slips or stumbles he gets whipped for it. If the driver 
looses his hat be whips his team to pay for it. If he runs into 
another wagon through his own carelessness he whips his horses 



61 

to make it all right. If he gets angry or out of patience from 
any cause whatever, he vents his spite on his team. 

Always speak to your horse in a natural voice. The pulse of 
a nervous horse may be increased from ten to fifteen beats in a 
minute by a single harsh word. 



Bad to Catch in Pasture. 

This is one of the most provoking and annoying of all the bad 
habits of the horse, and one that is the result of bad management 
when he was young. If you will always fondle and caress your 
colts and young horses, and instead of driving them from you, 
will frequently feed them something they like from your hand, 
and not allow them to be stopped with the halter, or frightened 
in any way when they are turned out, they will never be bad to 
catch. But you have one that has learned this bad habit, and 
now you want to break him of it. Put on your Spanish halter 
and work him up sharply, first right and then left, (if he is very 
stubborn put it on double,) until he will come to you at the word 
and follow like a dog. ISfow jou want to learn him that you can 
control him at a distance as well as close at hand. To do this 
have on the Spanish halter (single) and tie with a single bow 
knot that will slip out easily, the same as described in bitting the 
colt. Now tie two or three hairs of the main together, (after having 
first rubbed on a little shoemaker's wax to keep the knot from 
slipping,) just enough to hold the weight of the cord. Also a 
few tail hairs in the same way. Pass the end of the halter 
through these to keep the cord on the horse's back, and tie to it a 
long cord, so as to have it eighty or one hundred feet long, drag. 
ging behind. You now leave your horse in the pasture feeding 
quietly for a few minutes; you will then go out and walk carelessly 
about, as if you were doing something else, until you can get hold 
of the end of the cord. Now approach him with your halter in 
your hand, and if he is bad to catch he will start away. Grasp 



62 

the cord firmly, and when he gets the length of the rope, say 
come There ! at the same time giving him a jerk, which w T ill con- 
vince him that he is still in your power ; when he comes to you 
caress him kindly and fed him something that he likes, such as 
grain of any kind, or apples, or salt and sugar, mixed in equal 
proportions, is the best of all. Now fix the cord the same as 
before and in a few moments repeat the lesson, and in a short 
time he will come to you at the word from any part of the field. 
If you choose, you may substitute any other word, or perhaps a 
whistle is best of all. It is not the dread of work that makes 
horses bad to catch, (as most people suppose) but it is the fear of 
punishment, that he has learned by experience, he frequently gets 
as soon as you get your hands upon him, Always treat your 
horse kindly, and whenever you have occasion to go through the 
pasture call him to you and feed him something out of your hand, 
and you will have no trouble in catching him ; he will come at 
the call, even if it is in the middle of the night. 



Jumping in the Pasture. 

There are several ways to prevent horses from jumping in the 
pasture. The first is to have good fences. When a horse has 
once learned by experience that he can get over a poor fence, it 
takes but little practice to perfect him in the art of jumping so 
that no ordinary fence will stop him, A very good hobble may 
be made as follows : Put on a surcingle that has two rings at- 
tached, one opposite each fore leg; then take two straps made 
something like a name strap, only longer; light breast straps will 
do. Pass one round the arm of each leg, put the end through 
the keep and draw it rather snug. Now put the end through the 
ring of the surcingle and buckle it tight enough so that when he 
walks he can only bring his legs forward in a perpendicular line. 
Of course he cannot throwthem forward to jump. In some instan- 
ces it may be necessary to put on the hock straps, and tie a strap 



63 

from the hocks to the rings of the surcingle just long enough tor 
him to walk by taking short steps. He cannot jump with this on 
and will soon forget the habit. Another way is to tie his ears to- 
gether. To do this you will take a shoemaker's punch and make 
a small hole near the end of each ear. When it is well tie the 
ears together with a soft string, when you turn him out in the pas- 
ture. A horse will never jump unless he can put his ears forward. 
The hole is so small that the hair covers them and is not seen. 
We have known some of the worst jumpers in the country entirely 
cured of the habit in this way; also, sheep and cows may be 
cured of jumping in this way. For cows tie the ears to the op- 
posite horn. 

Another. — Have a good five-ring halter and attach a brow 
band; or, take an old head-stall without bit; stitch a piece of sheep 
skin with the wool side in to the brow-band. Have it long 
enough to reach within five or six inches of the nostrels, then split 
it in front about half or two-thirds of the way from the bottom 
edge to the eyes, then bring the corners down on each side and 
tie to the cheek pieces of the halter. Clip all the wool off from 
the sheep-skin directly over and about the eyes. With this on, the 
horse can see down, back and sideways, but not in front. Of 
course he can't jump. This will keep colts from running in the 
pasture and biting and worrying the team horses. 



Bad to Shoe. 

Put on the double Spanish halter and proceed to handle his 
feet with the cord in your hand. If he resists punish him at the 
mouth with the halter, and when he submits caress him. If this 
does not control him, tie his head and tail together and whirl him 
as described on page 41; then put on the Spanish halter as above. 
If he is very bad, and does not yield to this treatment, proceed to 
give him a regular course of handling as described in " Subdidng 
the Horse:" and handle his feet while down until he is con- 



64: 



yinced that you are not going to hurt him. Then put on the cord 
as above and you will have no trouble. 



Bad to Bridle. 

This habit has been brought about by bad management in the 
first place. The colt was a little awkward about taking in the 
bits before he knew what was wanted of him; they having been 
forced and jerked up into his mouth in such a rough, harsh way 
as to make him afraid to take them in at all. A little kindness 
and patience in the first place would have prevented the difficulty. 
Having once learned the habit it is hard to break it up. We 
would give such an animal a regular course of treatment as 
described in "Subduing the Horse." Then take the bridle and 
put it on and take it off while he is down, and rub and fondle 
him about the head and ears until he will submit to having his 
head handled. Then take some salt and sugar mixed in equal 
proportions and let him eat it from the hand; at the same time 
put the bits carefully in his mouth. Then caress and feed him 
more salt and sugar from the hand held rather low. At the same 
time take the bridle off and put it on again, and rub and caress 
him about the head and ears. He will soon learn that he is not 
going to be hurt, and he will hold down his head and take the 
bits without difficulty, For a few days unbuckle the bits before 
putting on the bridle, put the bridle over the head, then put the 
bits carefully in the mouth. A few days of careful handling in 
this way will radically cure the habit. But harsh treatment is 
sure to make it worse. 



Biting the Blanket or Halter. 

Some horses will bite their blankets and tear them off. This 
is frequently the case with stallions. Others will bite and untie 



65 

their halter. To cure this habit take some paste and put upon the 
blanket or halter where they bite it, and sift upon it a good sup- 
ply of cayenne pepper. He will quit after getting one or two 
tastes of the pepper. 



Switching and Hugging the Line Under His Tail. 

Some horses have a kind of habit of switching which is natu- 
ral to them; the same as some men have a habit of winking the 
eyes. But the habit is usually caused by a ticklishness about 
the tail. To cure this take an old harness or surcingle with 
a crupper, wrap old rags or a piece of an old blanket about 
the crupper until it is three or four inches in diameter; put 

this upon him and let it remain on all night; of course he 
will hug the tail down at first. But he is just like a 

man grasping a rope or a stick and holding it with all his 
might. In a little while the muscles become tired, and he is glad 
to let go, so with the horse. The next day if he gets his tail over 
the line, instead of hugging it he will lift it and let the line loose. 
If he is a swicher, hang a lot of straps on and about the crupper, 
in such a way as to dangle all about his tail. Now every time he 
switches he is knocking the straps one side and the other, and is 
all the time taking the ticklishness out of himself, and is glad to 
stand still. Some of the worst horses of this kind that we ever 
knew have been cured of the habit in one or two nights with 
this treatment. 



Hard Bitted Horses. 

For a horse of this kind we would put on the double joint bit 
and get a good whoa ! on him. Then don't use the word whoa ! 
to steady him down with, but use steady, or some other word, and 
never say whoa ! unless you want him to stop. A horse of this 
kind has learned to bear upon the bit, and the harder you pull 
i 



66 

upon the reins the harder he bears, and the faster he goes. Take 
him on a smooth road and let him have the bit gradually at first, 
and steady him down with the word. If you don't pull upon the 
reins he has nothing to bear against and is disconcerted. We 
have known some of the worst pullers come down upon a walk 
with a few moments of this treatment. If you have a good whoa I 
on him, there will be no danger of his running away. If he goes 
too fast set him back with a jerk, and then give him the reins 
again, and steady him down with the word, and he will soon 
learn to draw the buggy with the tugs instead of the reins. 



TEACHING TRICKS. 

As many of our scholars may wish to know how to teach their 
horses tricks, we will explain how it may be done. Teaching a 
young horse a few tricks greatly serves to keep up an interest in 
him, and makes him appear intelligent, fearless and affectionate. 
In teaching your horse to perform tricks it is necessary to first 
force him to do what you wish and then caress him kindly for 
doing it, and reward by feeding him something that he likes. In 
teaching your horse to perform tricks, it is best to give him lessons 
of half or three-quarters of an hour each, daily. 



To Come at the Crack of the Whip, or at the Word of 

Command. 

See u To make a colt follow under the whip," page 23. 



To Make a Bow. 

Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and forefin- 
ger, and stand before, but a little to the left of your horse. Then 



67 

prick him on the breast or on the back about where the surcingle 
would naturally come (we prefer the back), very lightly, as if a 
fly was biting, which, to relieve, he will bring down his head, 
which you will accept as yes, and for which you will reward him 
by caressing and feeding him a little apple, a few kernels of corn 
or oats. Then repeat and so continue until he brings down the 
head the moment he sees the least movement of your hand toward 

his breast or back; or substitute some signal which he will readily 
understand. 



To Say ZSTo. 

Stand by your horse near the shoulder, holding the same pin 
in your hand, with which prick him lightly on the back ot the 
neck, and to relieve himself he will skake his head. You then 
caress him as belore, and so repeating, until he will shake his 
head at the least indication of your touching him with the pin. 
You can train your horse so nicely in this way, in a short time, 
as to cause him to shake his head, or bow by merely turning the 
hand a little, or moving it slightly toward him. 



To Lie Down. 

To teach a horse how to do this trick quickly, you must lay him 
down two or three times, or as often as you will find it necessary 
to make him understand your object. If an old horse, strap the 
near fore leg up to the arm, then take your little strap, previously 
used to tamper your colt with, and place over the back and strap 
around the off fore foot, below the fetlock. Then take the bridle 
rein firmly in your left hand, about eighteen inches from the head, 
and pu]l upon it a little toward you; the moment he steps, pull upon 
the strap over the body, which will bring the horse to his knees. 
Hold him quietly, at the same time talking to him gently. When 
he springs, pull sharply with the left hand, and at the same in- 



68 

stant pull down with the right, which will swing him around you, 
and prevent his rising high enough to injure his knees by the mo- 
mentum ot the body coming down. By being gentle the horse 
will usually lie down in a short time. When down treat your 
horse with greatest attention and kindness. After holding him 
down, ten or fifteen minutes, permit him to get up. Kepeat this 
lesson until he will come down readily. Then use only the strap 
over his back, which have on the near foot, and bring him on his 
knees gently, when he will soon lie down. When he will come 
down on his knees readily by taking up the foot in this way, take 
up the foot with the hand, asking him to lie down. He will soon 
come down. When he will come down on his knees readily by 
taking up the foot with the hand, simp ]y stoop as if intending to 
take it up, saying "lie down, sir. 5 ' Then make him comedown 
by a motion of the hand, and finally by telling him to lie down. 
If a colt, use but a single strap over the body at first, which will 
cause him to come on his knees. In teaching a horse to lie down, 
be gentle, caress and reward him for lying down, and your horse 
comprehending what you want, and finding himself paid for 
compliance, will soon be as anxious to get down for the reward as 
you are to have him. 



To Paw With His Fore Feet. 

Take a pin and prick him lightly on the arm of the fore leg. 
He will soon learn to paw to get rid of the prick, and then he 
will paw when you stoop as if to prick him. It is very easy to 
teach a horse this trick, which gives him the appearance of having 
more intelligence than almost any other; for he will continue to 
paw as long as you stoop towards his leg, and when you straighten 
up he will stop. Thus you can make him tell his age, count, do 
examples in arithematic, etc. 



69 

To Walk on His Hind Feet. 

Put on the Spanish halter and stand directly in front of him, 
and by slight jerks, and by touching him on the nose with the 
whip make him raise up on his hind feet. 



To Waltz. 

Put on a surcingle and bring the head round to one side which 
will cause him to go aiound in circles. At the same time say 
" waltz !" He will soon learn to go round at the word without 
having his head tied. 



To Sit Up. 

When your horse will lie down readily, you can then easily teach 
him to sit up like a dog. If young, and not very heavy and strong, 
you can easily prevent his getting up without tying down. First, 
cause him to lie down, having on him a common bridle, with the 
reins over the neck; then step behind him, and place the right 
foot firmly upon the tail, the reins in your hands. Then say " get 
up, sir." The horse, rising from a recumbent position, first upon 
his belly, throws out his forward feet, and raises himself upon 
them, springs forward, and raises on his hind feet. Now, stand- 
ing upon his tail firmly, and pulling back upon the reins when he 
attempts to spring forward and up, will prevent him from doing 
so, and you hold him sitting up. Hold him firmly a few seconds, 
talking to him kindly and caress, before permitting him to rise 
on his feet. Repeat a few times, when, instead of springing up, 
he will sit on his haunches a short time, which you are to accept 
as complying with your wishes. Always say " sit up sir," every 
time, and hold him in the position as long as he will bear, fond- 
ling him, and feeding him from the hand with something he likes, 
and your horse will learn to sit up for you as long as you please. 



70 

But if your horse is heavy and strong, it will be necessary to 
resort to other means to hold him down at first. This you can do 
by putting on his neck a comon collar, and causing him to lie 
down. Then fasten a piece of rope, or a rein, to each hind foot, 
and bring forward through the collar, and bring up close, which 
will bring the hind feet well forward. Then step behind, as be- 
fore, and when he attempts to rise on his hind feet, he finds it im- 
possible to do so, because you hold them firmly with those straps. 
Repeat two or three times, when it will not be necessary to resort 
to such force. 



To Bore a Hole With His Forward Feet. 

Tie his forward feet or hold them still with the hand and make 
him go round with the hind feet, which twist his forward legs, and 
give them the appearance of an auger boring a hole. 



To Get Upon a Box. 

Put one foot on the box and make him step the other up, and 
he will soon step up himself. And then it is very easy to make 
him step round with the hind feet, keeping the fore feet on the 
box. To learn him to get on the box with all four feet takes a 
good deal of time and patience. But it is like all the rest; first 
force him to do it, and then caress and reward him for it. 



To Teach a Horse to Kiss You. 

Teach him first to take an apple out of your hand. Then 
gradually raise the hand nearer the mouth, at each repetition, 
until you require him to take it from your mouth, holding it with 
the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. He will soon 
learn to reach up his nose to your mouth, first to get the apple, 
but finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until 
your horse understands the trick thoroughly. 



71 
To Shake Hands. 

Tie a short strap, or piece of cord, to the forward foot, below 
the fetlock. Stand directly before the horse, holding the end of 
this strap or cord in your hand, then say, " shake hanks, sir;" and 
immediately after commanding him to do so, pull upon the strap, 
which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept 
as shaking hanks, thanking him for it by caressing and feeding. 
And so repeat, uutil when you make the demand, he will 
bring the foot forward in anticipation of having it pulled up. 
This is a very easy trick to teach a horse. By a little practice, 
a horse may be easily trained to approach, make a bow, 
shake hands, and follow like a dog, lie down, sit up, and the like, 
which make him appear both polite and intelligent. 

Never lose courage, or confidence in your ability because you 
may not bring about good results easily. To accomplish anything 
of importance, remember requires no ordinary resolution and per- 
severence. There would be no credit or importance attached to 
mastering and managing bad horses, if not difficult, and appar- 
ently dangerous. No duty requires more firmness of purpose in 
the control of the passions, or more fidelity to the principles of 
firmness and truth, than that of horsemanship. 

If you would really be a successful horseman, you must never 
seem to forget, by your conduct, that you are a man, and that your 
real superiority over the animal really consists in the prudent ex- 
ercise of your reasoning powers. Brute force is not your forte, 
and the moment you give way to passion your reason must yield 
to the control of blind instinct, and you at once abdicate your 
intellectual superiority over the animal. Try to prove, by the 
example of your action in the performance of the duty, that to be 
a good horseman requires higher qualifications of fitness than 
that of the huckstering dishonesty and depravity, so generally 
evinced in the conduct of those claiming the distinction. 



72 
HOW TO TELL A HORSE'S AGE BY THE TEETH. 

According to Dadd, Zenatt, and several other authorities. 

At two years old the colt sheds the two front nippers and the 
permanent ones have taken their places, with their deep pits in 
the center, and uneven edges. 

At three years, the two permanent, middle, or adjoining teeth 
are seen. 

At four yews, the permanent corner teeth appear, and the 
tusks will begin to show. 

At jwe yews, the corner teeth are well up, the front nippers 
somewhat worn, and the tusks fully developed. 

At six years, the black marks have disappeared from the two 
front teeth, leaving a brown mark in its place. 

At seven yea/rs, the black marks have disappeared from the 
center nippers, leaving a brown mark. 

At eight years, the black marks are gone from all the nippers 
in the lower jaw. They may remain in the upper teeth some- 
what longer, but the marks are now said to be gone from the 
horse's mouth. The corner nippers are sometimes burned with a 
hot iron to give them seven year old marks. After this there is 
no accuracy in telling the age, but may be guessed at from gene- 
ral appearance. 

At nine, the front nippers begin to assume a roundish appear- 
ance, and the cups are gone from the front nippers above. 

At ten years, the center nippers begin to assume a roundish ap- 
pearance, and the cups leave the center nippers above. 

At eleven years, the nippers all have a roundish appearance, 
and the cups have left all the nippers above. 

At twelve or thirteen years, the corner nippers begin to assume 
a triangular appearance. 

At seventeen years, the nippers all have a triangular appearance. 

At eighteen, they gradually assume an oval appearance which 
is completed at the age of twenty-one. The teeth then all have 






73 

an oval appearance, but in a reversed direction, from outward to 
inward. There are also other signs by which a person can form 
some idea of the horse's age. As the animal increases in years 
the upper corner teeth become indented or notched. Some idea 
may also be formed from the inclination of the lower teeth. At 
eight years of age the teeth are nearly upright, but they gradually 
assume a horizontal position, until, at the age of twenty-one, they 
stand nearly straight out. They also gradually grow long, and 
assume a yellowish appearance. There is no certainty in deter- 
mining the exact age of an old horse. But a good judge, who 
takes into consideration all the appearances, the marks, and 
points, and the inclination of the teeth, will not be apt to make 
any very great mistakes. 



TRAINING CATTLE. 



Breaking Steers. 

In breaking steers, as in horses, patience and perseverance are 
necessary to success. And the same general rules will apply in 
both cases. First gain the confidence of your animal by kindness 
mingled with firmness. Let him understand that your will is law, 
and must be obeyed. Teach him carefully what you want him 
to do, and be sure that he fully comprehends what is required of 
him. Always reward him for doing right, and punish only for 
doing wrong. And whatever he does, never, under any circum- 
stances, allow yourself to become angry or lose your patience. 
Treat him kindly and show him that you are his friend, and he 
will not only be willing, but anxious to serve you. 

The first thing to do in breaking steers is to get one of them 
into a barn, or small yard with a high, strong fence, so that he 
cannot get away from you, and be sure that you are entirely alone 
with the steer. Then prepare yourself with a good whip, with the 
stock five or six feet long, and a leather lash, perhaps two feet 
long. Then approach him slowly with your whip in your hand. 
If he runs from you, just walk slowly after him. Don't be in a 
hurry, but keep following him up until he becomes accustomed to 
your presence, and is satisfied that you are not going to harm him. 
(If he is very wild it may take an hour or more.) When he will 
allow you to approach him, scratch and rub him lightly with the 
end of your whip-stock; he will soon allow you to rub and pat 
him with the hand. Gentle and caress him for awhile; then 
take your whip and touch him lightly on the off side off the 



75 

neck, just back of the ear and say, Haw ! When he moves 
his head a little towards you, stop and caress him kindly. 
If he runs from you, don't try to stop, but just follow him 
up. When you can approach him touch him again on the off 
side, and say, Haw! He will soon learn to come round at the 
word. If he is very bad, put a surcingle around him rather loosely; 
now take a hame strap and gently buckle it round his near fore 
foot; attach a small rope to it, which should be long enough to 
reach half way across the yard; pass the rope over the surcingle 
and take the end in your hand; if he attempts to run from you, 
pull upon the rope, which will at once put him upon three legs; 
at the same time hit him lightly over the head, and say, Whoa ! 
Be sure and caress him for each act of obedience. He will soon 
learn stop and haw at the word. Now take off the surcingle, 
strap, etc., and turn him out. Take his mate and give him the 
same kind of a training. By this time the first one is cool and 
rested, and ready for another lesson. Eepeat the first lesson with 
the whip, then touch him lightly with the whip on the near side 
of the neck, just back of the ear, and say, Gee ! until he will step 
round from you; then stop and caress. Eepeat until he will haw 
and gee readily at the word. Do the same with his mate. This 
is perhaps as much as it would be best to do in one day; but if 
you wish you may go right on with the training. Take the first 
one into the yard. Take him near the fence or wall, and standing 
by his side, hit him lightly over the head and say, Back ! When 
he steps back stop, and caress. Repeat until he will go back at 
at the word. Now give the other steer the same lesson. You 
now want them to come to you by the word Here ! Take one at 
a time, as before; stand a little in front of him, and hit him lightly 
behind, and say, Here ! When he obeys, caress, until he will 
come at the word. If you choose, you may put on the Spanish 
halter, and fetch him to the right and left, the same as you would 
to halter-break a colt. Your steers have now learned Whoa, Haw, 
Gee, Back, and Here. Now take them both into the yard and 
practice them together. Bring them together side by side, the same 



76 

as if yoked. Now hit the off one lightly on the neck on the off side, 
and at the same hit him behind, which will cause him to go for- 
ward and haw round. Make him take an entire circle round the 
near one, and come back into his place. Now do the same with 
the near one; hit bim lightly on the near side of the neck, and 
touch him behind; gee him round the off one and make him come 
back to his place. If you chose you may now reverse them and 
put the near one on the off side, and go through the same training. 
By this time the steers have learned to put confidence in you, and 
you may take them out into the open yard, or street, if you choose, 
and go through the same performance. 

The next step will be to accustom the steers to the yoke. Take 
one at a time into the yard, and place the yoke upon his neck, 
moving it gently backward and forward, and sideways, until he 
becomes accustomed to it; then take the bow and do the same 
with that. Now put the yoke upon his neck, put in the bow, 
and fasten it with the key. If he becomes frightened, as is 
sometimes the case, and whirls, keep out of the way so as not to 
get hit with the end of the yoke as it comes round. He will soon 
become satisfied that he is not going to be hurt, and stop. Now 
go to him and take hold of the end of the yoke and shake it 
lightly, at first; if he stands still caress him; then shake it about 
harder, as he will bear it, being careful always to caress when 
he submits, until he will allow you to throw it over his neck and 
back, and shake it about as much as you please. Give the other 
one the same lesson. Now go across the yard and, holding up the 
yoke, say, come here. He will come by the word Here ! and will 
soon learn to walk under the yoke at the word. Do the same 
with the other, always remembering to caress for every act of 
obedience. You are now prepared to yoke both steers together. 
Let them walk about a short time to become accustomed to the 
constraint of the yoke, and to learn to move together. Now hook 
a chain into the ring of the yoke and rattle it about, and make it 
jingle, until they become used to it. Then take hold of the end 
of the chain, which should be long enough to place you beyond 



77 

the reach of their heels; now swing it lightly against their legs, 
and if they show any disposition to kick, keep swinging it against 
their legs as long as they kick. You now want to learn them to 
draw. Hitch a pole, or two or three rails, to the chain, and in" 
crease as they will bear it. Now accustom them to the . sled- 
tongue, and load light at first, increasing as they will bear it. Be 
careful always to speak kindly, and caress for doing right. If 
your steers have learned to run away (which will not be very 
likely if broken by the above process), put a strap with a rope at- 
tached round the fore leg of each, bringing the rope back into the 
sleigh or wagon. If they attempt to run you can bring them upon 
three legs; at the same time, hit them sharply over the head, and 
say, Whoa! 



Kicking Cows. 

It is natural for the cow to stand while being milked; conse- 
quently the heifer knows nothing about kicking until hurt or 
frightened into it. The lesson in regard to heifers is therefore 
perfectly plain. Be careful and not hurt or frighten them. If by 
accident you should, and they kick, do not punish them for it. 
Kindness and gentle handling is the only remedy. If your cow 
kicks, let your reasoning for the cause be based upon the principle 
that she never kicked until she was injured, and the remedy will 
at once suggest itself. No cow was ever broken of kicking by 
striking with the stool or other weapon. This practice only puts 
the cow on her guard, and as you come near her with the stool 
she uses nature's defense, and kicks. Handle her gently. If she 
walks off or kicks, pay no attention to it, using no loud words or 
blows. If her teats are sore, she is quite liable to do either ; and 
you must have patience until they are healed. In our experience, 
we have never found a confirmed kicker in a yard where kindness 
was a characteristic of the family who handled the dairy ; on the 



78 

contrary, we have found plenty of them were quarreling, loud 
words, and general bad temper prevailed. 

If the cow has become a confirmed kicker, put on the Spanish 
halter, and halter-break her the same as directed for halter-break- 
ing colts. It is a good plan to halter-break every heifer, when 
they are young. For the, kicker put on the Spanish halter and 
hold it in your hand, or let an attendant hold it while you are 
milking, and every time she attempts to kick, jerk upon the cord, 
and she will associate the punishment at the mouth with the kick- 
ing. She will be afraid to kick, and the habit is cured. Be sure 
to caress and talk kind and gently to her when she submits. 



Milking. 

Dadd says : " Give the cow some kind of food just before you 
commence to milk, as the process of mastication will take her 
attention from the milker's operation, and she will not hold up 
the milk." "The teats should be washed with warm water in winter 
and cold water in summer, to remove the dirt which would other- 
wise fall into the pail." "A merciful man, or, what is better, a 
kind-hearted woman, make the best milkers." " The cow's teats, 
especially while young, are sometimes excessively tender, and the 
hard tugging and squeezing which many poor sensitive creatures 
have to endure at the hands of some thoughtless, hard-fisted men, 
are truly distressing to witness." " The milker should not sit off' 
at a distance, like a coward, but his left arm should be in close 
contact with the leg of the cow, so that she cannot kick ; if she 
makes the attempt he will only get a push instead of a blow." 
The milking should be done in the quickest, possible time, and 
the cow should be milked clean and dry, otherwise the cow will 
be ruined as a milker, besides losing the richest and most valu- 
able part of the milk. The indolent person, " slow coach," on the 
one hand, or the " Mr. Hurry-up," on the other, who cannot spend 
time to attend to the strippings, should never be allowed to go 
near a cow. 



TRAINING DOGS. 



From A. H. Rockwell's New Work. 

The dog is the most domestic and intelligent of all animals. 
He is easy to teach, and, if properly used, is a faithful and willing 
servant of man ; if abused and ill-treated he is quite apt to be 
disagreeable and a nuisance. The dog being so closely a compan- 
ion of mankind, it becomes a duty to educate him in such a 
manner that he will reflect credit upon his master, and be an 
agreeable inmate of the household as well as a useful assistant. 
We have given much attention to this subject, it being one which 
cannot fail to interest those who give it thoughtful application. 
We have had two of the best trained dogs probably ever known 
in this country, and at the present writing have a greyhound 
which understands to obey thirty-two different words, and we 
always found a pleasure in teaching them. The rules whereby 
any one who will be patient, kind and persevering can educate 
dogs to be useful as well as to perform pleasing tricks, are easily 
understood. We give a few, sufficient to lead the operator to the 
practice of many more. There are of course as many different 
traits and dispositions of dogs as there are different breeds, and 
judgment will be required in teaching the dog to train him to that 
to which he is best adapted by nature. For instance, a Terrier 
will catch rats, while a Setter will scent birds without training ; 
the St. Bernard is a faithful watchman, and the Greyhound takes 
to running from his birth. These natural traits it is necessary to 
have in mind in attempting to teach the dog, being careful in not 
urging upon him the performance of any duties or tricks which 



80 

are manifestly not in his nature to do. In selecting dogs for any 
particular lesson, study his subject closely. As probably the most 
useful lesson to be taught, we commence with 

Training the Shepherd to Drive. 

Take a well-bred Shepherd dog, about six months old, reared 
in some secluded place, hearing no words with a meaning intend- 
ed to be attached, except his name. He should know nothing of 
the ordinary words in use towards dogs, and not have been 
handled by boys or careless persons. Take him alone with you 
in a large room. The first thing to be done is to teach him to 
lead ; placing a strap around his neck that can not hurt him, to 
which attach a cord six or eight feet in length ; stand still and 
hold upon the cord for a few minutes, until he ceases struggling 
to get away. It is best to give one lesson each day during the 
whole training. The first two lessons should be devoted toteach- 
ing him that he can not get away. Now commence teaching him 
to come to you by pulling upon the rope and saying, " Here ! ' 
using only the one word. 

In the use of this as well as all other words used in teaching 
the dog, one word is all that is best to try and teach him for any 
one act, it being so difficult to make him understand if you 
attempt to teach him more. When he is once fixed in the habit 
of minding the word, you may then use such other words in con- 
nection therewith as are pleasant to the ear, as, for instance, 
" Come here, sir ! " Without the word here he will not know 
what you mean, and the others being meaningless to him, do not 
puzzle him. He will also be less liable to have too many masters, 
as the one word will not be likely to be used every time by a per- 
son unacquainted with your mode of training. Of course, if. you 
prefer it, you may, in giving the lesson, substitute other words for 
those laid down ; but we give those which are the readiest to the 
tongue. 

As the dog comes up, whether voluntarily or not, say "Do/" 



81 

and caress him. A lesson of an hour or two, working slowly and 
patiently, will be about right each time. Proceed with it until he 
will come to you from any portion of the room at the word u here." 
He will have learned by this time, probably, that the word " do " 
is for him to understand that you are throngh with him. When 
he perfectly realizes this, you may then prefix words, and say, 
" That will do" emphasizing upon the word do each time. You 
may also now say, " Come here ! " remembering that the words 
here and do are the only ones he obeys. He can not connect \v T ords 
to form sentences, or be made to understand them when thus con- 
nected. 

You now wish to teach him the words u go " and " halt" To 

do this, you will place yourself in a position of the room opposite 
to where the dog would naturally desire to go, (for instance, the 
door, or something which would attract him, such as food,) say 
u Go ! " and by coaxing and urging him, start him along ; as he 
gets part of the way, say " Halt ! n pull upon the string, stopping 
him, and say "Salt ! " again. Proceed with this until he has 
learned to obey both the words " go " and " halt? To teach these 
four words named will generally take three or four weeks. Now 1 
teach him to bark at the word u speak" by holding up something 
which he wants very much, for instance, food when he is quite 
hungry. You may now let him loose and let him run about with 
you, {previously keeping him confined, but not in a narrow place,) 
being watchful that he does not stray off, nor be hurt or handled 
by others. He will soon become handy about the house. You 
having control of him through the words you have taught him 
you can keep him in his place by word of command. For 
instance, if you wish him to go out ot doors, show him the door 
and say " go out ! " The word " go " will start him, and in a little 
while he will become familiar with the word " out." Let him have 
a fixed place to sleep, and teach him its name. If you have a 
dog already trained to drive and go behind, take him out with 
him to drive in the cattle. He will thus learn that they will run 
from him. Say nothing to him while he is with the other dog, 



82 

unless he attempts to go to the head of any of the cattle. This 
you must not allow. After two or three times take him out with- 
out the other dog, and allow him to run after the cattle, provided 
the cattle are used to being driven by dogs. It will not do to let 
him run where there is a chance of his being turned upon. If he 
runs them too last, say " steady/ " He will not know what you 
mean, but as you use words with him only when they mean some- 
thing, he will be apt to pay attention and go slower ; if he does 
not, say "halt/" then "go!" steadying him by the word 
" steady ! " if possible. He will gradually learn its meaning by 
its repetition. If you have no other dog, you will let him go 
without, being more watchful of him that he does not go to the 
head ot the cattle. Otherwise say nothing to him except " go ! " 
not letting him start until he gets the w^ord. After a while you 
may proceed to practice upon the other words he knows. If he 
shows no disposition to bite at the heels, or pull at the tail, take a 
rope and tie a knot a short distance up, fringe out the end, and 
play with him with the rope, letting him catch hold of it, and 
cause him to bark at it by using the word " speak" When he 
take3 hold of the rope say " up? and w r hen you wish him to let 
go, "do" You may then, with a slow cow, call him up, and, 
taking hold of the tail, say " tip" and " speak" to teach him to 
take hold of the tail and bark, when you say " start 'em up? 
and " speak to them," and to let go when you say " that will do" 
Now accustom him to the word " Fetch " for sheep, and " Get " 
for cattle, etc. ; so that when you say, " Go and get the 
cattle ! " he knows you mean cattle, instead of sheep or horses* 
You may now teach him to know the right from the left, 
and to obey your orders in that respect, by taking him 
into a large room, and by the motion of your right hand try 
to have him go to the right from you, saying, " Go" — " Eight!" 
If he does not do it,^6ay, " Halt !" and repeat. When he does do 
it, say, "That will do /" Continue this until he will go to the 
right at the motion of your hand and the word " Eight;" then 



S3 

with your left hand making motions, and the word "Left," you 
teach him the opposite. By these motions and an appeal to the 
intelligence of the dog by your countenance and eyes, you can 
start him for the fields in any direction you choose, and he soon 
learns to do your wants with very little telling. Following these 
rules will satisfy you that the dog can be taught indefinately re- 
specting all things which pertain to his peculiar nature. 



The Watch Dog. 

For a good watch- dog select one of a breed adapted to the busi- 
ness. There is but little that you can teach such a one, as it is some- 
what of a natural trait ; and any other than a natural watch-dog, 
however much you may labor with him, will never be reliable. 
A barking dog, one that will be noisy on the approach of intruders, 
is best ; a dog that bites, but does not bark is only fit to put in 
barns or other out-buiidings nights, chaining him up day times; 
and then he is dangerous, even to his keeper, as a sudden start 
will cause him to bite any one. To teach your dog, give him 
something to watch, saying, " Take care of it !" as you place him 
near the object He will soon learn the word, and upon being 
directed to any particular thing, will faithfully guard it. While 
teaching him allow no one but yourself to approach him without 
setting him on. You may have a stranger approach and tease 
him, you urging him to drive the person away, and as soon as he 
starts, let the person run, you calling the dog back. While young 
do not compel him to stay too long at one thing, and when you 
go up to him say, ;; That will do /" feeding him something. After 
the manner spoken of in the previous illustration, whenever you 
wish the dog to bite or go at any person or thing, you will teach 
him words the reverse of what you mean, such as, " Be still," 
w Get cut," " Lie down." You will see that a person not under- 
standing the dog will not be very apt to get near him, as he would 
naturally make use of these words, and they would be setting him 



84 

on, instead of quieting him. To call him yourself, use such con- 
venient word as you choose, but not one naturally used by others. 
As this ingenious use of words is about the only new idea we can 
suggest to teach watch-dogs, the master can exercise his own in- 
genuity to render it practical. 



THE TRICK DOG. 

Many amusing tricks may be taught which will exhibit in a 
wonderful degree the intelligence ot the dog. As we have before 
said, much depends upon the breed. A dog of one peculiar breed 
may be taught a certain class of tricks, while that of another breed 
will be entirely different in his characteristics. A well-bred dog 
is hard to teach any tricks except those pertaining to his nature, 
while a mongrel cur is quite easy to teach any. Perhaps a Span- 
ish poodle dog is the most tractable of any, though a black-and-tan 
is quite apt. We give a few examples, sufficient to form a ground 
work for the intelligent operator to extend the list of tricks at his 
pleasure. We begin with a lesson 

To Teach Him to Sit Up. 

Sit him up in a corner, and with a switch hit him lightly under 
the mouth, snapping your finger, and saying, " Sit wpP As he 
comes down put him back and repeat until lie will remain, which 
he will do in a few minutes; then say, "That will do /" and coax 
him down and caress him. When he has learned this sufficiently, 
set him up against a wall and try the same thing; this will require 
more patience, as he can so easily get over to either side. When, 
however, he will do it, then take him out in the center of the floor; 
this will take still longer; but if followed up kindly and per- 
severingly, he will learn to perform the trick at the word and the 
snapping of the finger. 






85 

To Teach Him to Sit Down. 

Press your hand upon his back toward his hind legs and say 
" Sit down !" at the same time tapping with your foot upon the 
floor. If he attempts to lie down or draw his feet under him, 
scare him up, and teach him that " sit down" is what you are after, 
tapping him under the chin to keep his head well up. He will, 
after a lew lessons, sit down at the word and a tapping of your 
foot on the floor. 

To Stand Up. 

Take some food in your hands and offer it to him,. holding it 
well up, and say, " Stand up /" Repeat this until he will stand 
up quite readily, holding out your unoccupied hand for him to 
support his fore feet on. Gradually take away your hand, each 
time that he comes up, saying, " Stand up !" Then take him by 
the forward feet and lift him up quite hard, and say, " Stand up !" 
Tou will soon get him so that when you lift him he will straighten 
up and show signs of standing; then make the effort to teach him 
to stand up at the word and the holding out of your hand. You 
may now combine this with the last two tricks, saying, " Sit up !" 
" Stand up !" " Sit down !" " That will do !" These are the first 
tricks he should be taught, as they are the foundation for others. 

To Get Into a Chair. 

This is very easily done, taking your own way to coax him into 
the chair, using the word u Chair" whenever you cause him to 
get into it. When he becomes familiar with the word, accompa- 
nied with a motion of the hand toward a chair, you may use other 
words in connection therewith, as, u Go and get up into the chair" 
After he will do this handy, you may then teach him to put his 
paws upon the back of the chair, by asking him to " Put them tip" 
or saying, u Up," assisting him at first. When he will do it readily 
you may teach him to put his head down upon his paws, by placing 
it there, and repeating the word " Down," of course caressing him 



86 

each time that he complies. To have him hold his head up, tap him 
under the mouth and say, " "Op*" remembering to say, u That will 
do? when you are through with the trick. You may now teach 
him to jump over the chair by playfully coaxing him to do so 
saying, " Jump !" 

To Make Him Go Lame. 

Tap him with a little rod upon the hind foot, saying, " Lame /" 
teaching him to stand and hold it up whenever you say "Lame." 
Now coax him along, and if he puts it down, hit him quite smartly 
on the foot, making him keep it up until he will go lame at the 
word and a motion of the rod. Now, whenever you send him 
into the chair, as before, as he goes to jump down, stop him, teach- 
ing him to wait for the word " Do." As lie comes down witli his 
tore feet on the floor say, " Steady? and teach him to stop with 
his hind legs up in the chair. He is now ready 

To Run on His Forward Legs. 

To teach him this, take hold of his hind legs, lift them up and 
walk him round in a circle, and place them in a chair, saying, 
" Round" Do this every time you perform the trick of having 
him get into the chair. After a while take him by the tail and 
litt him up, and switching Ins hind legs lightly, walk him around 
in the same manner, saying, "Round? as before. With patience 
and perseverence he will learn to lift up his hind legs at the 
motion of the whip, and at the words, " Go around, perform a 
circle, walking on his forward feet, and place his hind feet in the 
chair; of coarse the height of the chair must be adapted to the 
length of the dosfs leers. 

To Sit on a Stool. 

It is now very easy to teacli him to "sit doion" on a low stool. 
You may then teach him to " Take a seat" on the stool by leading 
him around by his forward feet, and setting him on the stool with 



87 

bis forward feet held up, saying u Seat !" You then have him 
taught to go on all-fours and sit down on the stool, and go on his 
hind-feet and take a seat, with his forward feet up. 

To Teach Him to Find Things, 

Take something with which he is accustomed to play, and after 
getting him enlivened with play, call him up to you and blindfold 
him, and throw the article a short distance from you. If the dog 
has a good scent, tell him you have " lost '" Then remove the 
blindfold and he will search and find it. Repeat this, throwing 
it farther each time, until you can throw your knife or anythi ng 
which you have held in your hand, at a distance, you loooking in 
the direction, and saying, " I have lost my knife." He will search 
until he finds it and brings it to you. If the dog has not good 
scent, teach him to look down at the word "find? and up at the 
word " up? doing as before. 

We have now given a sufficient number of examples to set 
forth the important rules which govern the teaching of dogs* By 
an observance of these you may teach your dog to climb ladders, 
fetch things to you, carry baskets, roll over, lie down, shut doors, 
and an almost innumerable number of tricks. To teach the dog, 
however, you must have perfect control over your temper; never 
whip severely, and never get out of patience. 



SHOEING. 



The hoof of the horse, being of a horny substance, is sufficiently 
hard to protect the feet while he roams over the broad fields and 
grassy plains. But when he becomes the servant of man (who 
is his natural master), and is driven over the hard roads, his hoof, 
if unprotected, would soon become broken and otherwise injured. 
He would soon become lame and be of very little use. The feet, 
in the horse, are what the foundations are to a building. If the 
foundation is insecure, the whole building is in danger of falling. 
So if the feet in a horse are bad or unsound, the horse is of very 
little value, verifying the truth of the old adage, " No feet, no 
horse." The foot is a beautiful and complicated piece of mechan- 
ism, showing the wisdom of the creator in adapting each part so 
perfectly to the wants and uses of the animal; and like all com- 
plicated machinery, requires care and attention to keep in good 
order, or in a healthy condition. Shoeing is one means of accom- 
plishing this object, if properly done; but if not done as it ought 
to be, is often the cause of great injury. Many valuable horses 
have been ruined, and their feet spoiled, by bad shoeing. There 
are many very good blacksmiths, who are very bad horse- 
shoers. The shoe has two important offices to perform. First, to 
protect the foot from injury; and second, to keep it in its natural 
shape. There have been various devices adopted in different ages 
of the world to protect the foot of the horse. But as the iron shoe 
nailed upon the crust of the hoof is found to be the best and only 
practical shoe now in use, it is unnecessary to speak of the others. 
In order to properly understand the principles of shoeing, it is 
necessary to understand something of the structure of the foot, and 



89 

the relations each part bear to the other.. We cannot do this bet- 
ter than to extract from Dadd's large work : 

" The Mechanism of the Hoof. — A brief exposition of the 
mechanism of the hoof may possibly interest the reader. The ex- 
ternal covering of the foot may be divided into four parts; namely, 
the wall, bars, sole, and frog. The external portion, or wall 
serves to defend the sensitive tisues within. The wall, or hoof is 
composed of small filaments, or hollow tubes, consolidated in such 
a manner as to preserve their canals distinct. These canals con- 
stitute the excrementitious outlets of the hoof, from which morbid 
materials find an outlet, and in these canals are found the vessels 
by which horn is secreted or produced. The small vessels arising 
from the vascular and nervous tissues of the foot proper enter, 
also, into these canals. The bars are a continuation of the exter- 
nal portion just described. They form an angle at the heels, 
which terminates toward the toe. They thus serve to give 
strength and durability to the hoof, and also to prevent contrac- 
tion at the heels. When these bars are cut away or demolished 
by means of the butteris, then the foot often goes to ' rack and 
ruin.' The so]e is much more elastic than the crust, and is a 
medium of the sensitive faculty, through which, together with its 
powers of electricity, the percussion of the foot against the ground 
Is regulated. The frog is much more elastic than either of the 
parts just described. Any unnecessary paring of the same is a 
monstrous evil. 

u On the internal portion of the above-named parts we find a 
beautiful set of leaves (laminae), resembling those found in the 
under surface of a mushroom. Their number is said to be five 
hundred. These articulate with a like number given off from the 
sensitive tissues of the foot proper, each laminse having two sides 
and an edge, from a series of articulations, numbering three 
thousand. The whole surface of these articulations measures four 
square feet; hence, the horse having four feet, his body rests on 
sixteen square feet of surface, all contained within his hoofs." 

L 



90 

The upper portion of the crust, where it is attached to the skin 
at the termination of the hair, is called the coronet. The front 
part is called the toe. The center on either side, the quarters; 
and the back part, the heels, this being the thinest and weakest 
part of the wall or crust. In the triangular space between the 
bars we find the frog, which has two distinct functions, or offices, 
to perform. First, it acts as a cushion, preserving the foot from 
injury. Secondly, it acts as a sponge, taking up moisture to sup- 
ply the little water sacks that are situated inside the wall, near 
the heel, and from which moisture is conveyed to all parts of the 
foot, keeping it in a healthy condition. The sole is the portion 
between the bars and the wall. The inside of the sole and ground 
surface is covered with horny laminae, or thin plates, which are 
less numerous, and smaller than those which line the crust or wall. 
This sensitive laminae is very elastic and largely supplied with 
minute nerves, and fills up the entire space between the bones of 
the foot and the outside horn, or crust. The bones of the foot are 
put together with cartilages and ligaments, and the whole joined 
to the crust with the sensitive laminae in such a way as to make a 
double hinge joint of the greatest possible strength and elasticity. 
It will be seen from the peculiar structure of the foot (and long 
experience has proven the fact), that the sensitive parts of the 
foot, inside of the hoof, do not suffer so long as the bearing of the 
animal is confined to the crust or wall. Hence, it is evident that 
when the sole bears heavily upon the shoe, the delicate inside 
structure becomes bruised between the sole and the coffin bone, 
and the horse soon becomes lame; and, if not released, very se- 
rious consequences are sure to follow. It is obvious then, that 
the shoe should be so constructed and placed upon the foot as to 
protect the wall or crust (which is the natural bearing), and con- 
fine the bearing of the shoe to that part of the foot. The shoe 
should be constructed in such away as to give to the crust all the 
support it can possibly receive. The outer margin of the shoe 
should be perfectly level with the width of the crust, while the 



91 

inner margin should be seated or leveled inwards so as to avoid 
the pressure upon the sole. And the heels of the shoe should be 
perfectly level, from the nail holes backward. This is for a healthy 
and natural foot. But this rule must, of course, be deviated from 
to meet the various altered conditions as they occur in horses 
feet. The hoof, in a natural state, is very elastic and pliable. If 
you will measure across a horse's foot, at the heel, with the calipers, 
when it is raised, and then set it upon a level surface and let him 
throw his weight upon it, you w T ill find that it will measure from 
one eighth to quarter of an inch broader than it did when it was 
raised. Now the shoe should be so constructed, and nailed upon 
the foot, as not to interfere with this expansion and contraction 
every time the horse steps. To illustrate this subject more clearly 
and to fully understand the amount of injury inflicted upon the 
hoof in the ordinary method of shoeing, as practiced in a great 
majority of blacksmith shops in this country, examine the ordi- 
nary shoe which is used upon all occasions, and upon all forms 
and conditions of feet. If you will place a rule, or something that 
has a straight surface across such a shoe, you will find it presents 
a concave surface at the quarters and heels, being leveled inward 
from the outer edge. You will see at once that if such a shoe is 
nailed upon the hoof, the foot rests in a concavity, and the natural 
expansion of the foot is entirely prevented, it being impossible for 
the heels to expand up these inclined plains. Consequen tly, as 
the pressure comes upon the heels they are gradually forced in- 
ward, and contraction is the natural result, which must inevitably 
follow, sooner or later, w T hen shoes of this kind are used. On the 
other hand, it is impossible for a shoe that is properly made and 
fitted to cause contraction of the foot. The hoof, in a natural 
' state, being very elastic and pliable, we find, in the early stages 
of contraction, this horny case gradually becoming less. It no 
longer accommodates itself to the soft, pliable structure within its 
its limits; as a consequence, the parts become bruised and fever- 
ish; the natural moisture becomes absorbed, which still further 



92 

facilitates contraction. In a short time, the sensitive portion of the 
internal structure of the foot becomes bruised between the bars and 
crust, forming what is called a corn. This will be found in the 
angles between the bars and the crust. The crust and the bars 
uniting near the heel, form a triangular space, which is dimin- 
ished by contraction, pressing upon the sensitive parts within, 
acting like a vice. The hoof becomes dry, hard, and brittle, and 
liable to crack on a very slight concussion. By removing a por- 
tion of the hoof at the place indicated, we find a red spot, and in 
severe cases, it will have a brownish or bluish-red appearance, in 
which case it needs prompt attention, or the it will materate and 
work upward through the quarters and break out at the coronet, on 
the upper portion of the hoof n6xt the hair, producing a disease 
known as the Quitter, frequently terminating in permanent lame- 
ness, deformity, or sometimes the entire loss of the hoof. Those 
who have not investigated the subject are unwilling to believe 
that corns in the horse's foot are of so serious a matter, and hence 
are ready to attribute the difficulty to almost any other than the 
true cause. 



Shoeing for Corns. 

The corn, as before stated, is caused by the contraction of the 
hoof. It may also be produced by wearing the shoe too long. 
The external crust grows down on the outside of the shoe, and the 
bearing is thrown upon the sole in such a way as to bruise the 
parts within, and corns are the result. Anything which causes a 
bruise upon the part indicated, may cause a corn. The first thing 
to be done is to pair out the angle between the bar and the crust 
well down with a small drawing-knife, cutting the corn to the 
bottom, but be very careful not to wound the sole. Now examine 
the foot carefully to see if there is any effusion of blood or matter 
underneath. If this is the case, an opening must be made in the 
sole for the matter to escape downwards. AH of the crust that 



93 

is diseased or loosened from the sensitive laminse, must be cut 
awa} 7 , and the part dressed with (Dadd says) u a paste composed 
of equal parts of sugar and brown soap." Others recommend 
tar and rosin. If very bad it must be treated the same as for 
Quitters. If there is no suppuration discovered after the horn is well 
pared out, apply to the part butyr of antimony, or as Dadd says, 
"equal parts of tar and olive oil. This, I conceive to be the best 
dressing ever used tor corns." Fill the place where the corn was 
taken out with a pallet of tow, to keep out the dirt. The hoof, 
from the corn backward, must be cut away just enough so that 
when the shoe is nailed upon the crust, no part of the heel will 
press upon it, relieving it from unnecessary concussion. If the 
shoe is light, so as to be liable to spring and press upon the heel, 
put a side-cork just back of the last nail-hole, and leave the heel- 
cork low, or take it away entirely. A horse thus shod will travel 
with perfect ease, which, if shod in the ordinary way, would be 
decidedly lame. 



Shoeing for Contraction of the Feet. 

Contraction of the feet, if it is not a disease of itself, is fre- 
quently the cause of a variety of very serious difficulties, such as 
corns, quitter, crocks, ossification, navicular joint disease, founder, 
and a variety of other diseases. As we have said before, con- 
traction is caused by wearing a shoe having a concave upper sur- 
face, so that the walls of the foot, standing upon inclined plains, 
are forced together at every step. Now in order to expand the foot, 
and bring it back to its natural position, we must reverse the 
principle, and make a shoe with a convex bearing, or beveled out- 
ward at the heel. But great care and the utmost caution must be 
observed, that the bevel be only a very little removed from a level 
bearing, or much mischief may be done by forcing the heels too 
much. The hoof in this state is usually dry and very brittle, and 



94 

should be softened and made pliable by an application of equal 
parts of neatsfoot oil and spirits of tar; or, some recommend crude 
coal oil or kerosene, mixed with equal parts of cod-liver oil. (Dadd 
says, neatsfoot oil, 8 oz; kerosene, 4 oz; lamp-black, 1 tablespoon- 
ful; apply daily with a brush.) The shoe should be allowed to 
remain on the foot only a short time, when it should be replaced 
by one having a perfectly level bearing at the heels. 



Applying the Shoe to the Foot While Hot. 

Another great evil in the ordinary method of shoeing, and which 
is frequently the cause of much mischief, is fitting the shoe to the 
foot while red-hot. This has been a great cause of complaint 
throughout all Europe. And there has been so much said and 
wrote about it in that country that the practice is now nearly 
abandoned, while in this country the practice prevails to such an 
extent that it is little thought of, and looked upon as a matter of 
course. The application of the hot shoe to the foot, if performed 
by a careless workman, is frequently the cause of very much mis- 
chief, and if preformed with all possible care, and under the most 
favorable circumstances, cannot help doing much harm, causing 
an unhealthy growth of horn, and rendering the animal less sure- 
footed, and causing lameness, which it is difficult to trace to its 
true source. The hoof, in its natural state, is porous and pliable, 
and there is, exuding from every part of the surface, a sort of 
gummy, or oily substance, which evaporates as fast as it comes 
in contact with the atmosphere, but which keeps the horn moist, 
elastic, and healthy. And anything that interferes with this in- 
sensible perspiration (if we may be allowed the term), must* pro- 
duce unhealthy action. It is evident then, that searing with a hot 
iron any part of this horn} 7 structure, cannot but fail to produce se- 
rious injury to the part effected, by closing the pores, destroying the 
elasticity, and making it more or less hard and brittle. 



95 

The shoe should always be fitted to the foot, and not the foot to 
the shoe. This, of course, would be attended with more labor. But 
it would be better for the owner of horses to pay double the price 
for shoeing, than to have the feet injured by the application of hot 
shoes. In nearly all European countries they have made rapid 
advances towards perfection in the art of shoeing, mainly through 
the efforts of the professors of the various veterinary schools, 
pointing out, as they have done, the evils of one system of shoe- 
ing, and the benefits of the other. 



Preparing the Foot for the Shoe. 

In a state of nature the growth of the hoof is about equal to the 
wear. When the shoe is upon the foot this wear is prevented. 
The object of paring the hoof, then, should be to remove the horn 
equal to the natural growth of the hoof. It will be observed that 
if the shoes are allowed to remain on the horse's feet for a long 
time, without being removed, the crust becomes unusually long at 
the toe, and the animal is liable to trip at every step, showing the 
necessity of proper paring, in order to preserve the natural shape 
and elasticity of the foot. Another very important fact in refer- 
ence to the growth of the hoof, should always be borne in mind. 
In a state of nature the wear comes mostly upon the toe; and, in 
in order to preserve the proper shape of the foot, and protect it 
from injury, the Creator has so constituted it that the toe grows 
about six times as fast as the heel. Keeping this principle in 
view it will be perceived that the paring should be from the toe, 
and not from the heel. The toe, being the hardest part, is more 
difficult to remove. Many times the smith, either through igno- 
rance, carelessness, or laziness, will pare down the heel because 
it is the easiest done, leaving the toe long, and when the shoe is 
nailed upon a hoof prepared in this manner, the horse stands in 
the same position as a man would if the heel was taken off his 



96 

boot and nailed upon the toe. As a consequence, the back lead- 
ers, or sinews, of the legs become strained; lameness ensues, the 
muscles become inactive, and the result is sweeny, or a stiffness 
of the limbs (what is sometimes called road founder), and perma- 
nant lameness. In preparing the foot for the shoe, all the old 
stubs should be carefully removed, and the crust carefully pared 
away with the drawing-knife, removing the horn mostly from the 
toe, cutting away all of the old, or rotten parts of the sole, that 
have been thrown off by the natural waste of the system (called 
oxfoliation), and leaving only the sound and healthy horn. Much 
care and good judgment is required to know just how much of 
the sole ought to be removed. The amount will vary with differ- 
ent feet. Enough should be cut away to preserve the elasticity of 
the foot; but enough should be left to protect the internal parts 
from any danger of being bruised or injured. Youatt says, when 
it will yield slightly under the heavy pressure of the thumb, is the 
best guide. The crust or wall should now be reduced to a perfect 
level all round, but left a little higher than the sole. The crust at 
the heels should rarely be touched with the knife, or anything 
done to them, except lightly to rasp them, in order to give them a 
level surface. The inner heel, being the weakest, should be par- 
ticularly spared. Level the whole with a rasp. Trim out only 
the ragged or loose portions of the frog and bars, or such parts 
as may conceal dirt or other matter producing unhealthy action. 
The horn at the heel, next to the frog, may be cut away a little, 
so as to give the frog an opportunity to spread; at all events the 
frog should not be compressed. The frog might almost be 
termed the breathing apparatus of the foot; if that becomes un- 
healthy the rest is sure to suffer. 



Application of the Shoe. 

The first thing is to remove the old shoe, which is retained on 
the foot, by the ends of the nails being cut off, turned down, and 
clinched. The careless manner in which the shoes are usually 



97 

torn off is the cause of very great injury to the crust. The smith 
seldom takes the trouble to raise these clinches thoroughly, but 
with his pinchers takes hold, first of one heel of the shoe and then 
of the other, and with a violent wrench, separates it from the foot; 
then by a third wrench applied to the middle of the shoe, he tears 
it off. By this means he must enlarge every nail hole, and some- 
times split or check the crust, or even tear portions of it away, 
thus weakening the very part that is to form the bearing of the 
new shoe. The clinches should always be raised or filed off. 



Parings. 

The manner of applying the shoe to the foot, as it is often prac- 
ticed, is frequently the cause of mischief, and hidden lameness. 
The hoof is pared at the heel instead of the toe, consequently the 
hoof is long and thick at the toe, and in order to preserve the nat- 
ural shape of the foot, the shoe is set back half or three-quarters 
of an inch from the toe, and the projecting part of the wall is cut 
away. The crust is thus weakened. The space for driving the 
nails is reduced, increasing the danger of pricking, or what is as 
bad, driving the nails too close to the sensitive parts within, and 
the bearing, instead of being upon the natural wall or crust, comes 
partly upon the sole, bruising and injuring the sensitive laminae, 
and the owner wonders what makes his horse lame. As the toe 
grows so much faster than the heel, adapting itself to the natural 
wear of the foot, so the toe should be well pared down. The 
shoe should be set out fully to the outer margin of the wall, pre- 
serving the crust uninjured, and having its full bearing surface on 
the shoe. The nails should be light, properly pointed, and not 
driven too high, and care should be taken to have them as regu- 
lar as possible. Three nails on the inside, and four on the out- 
side, are all that is required, unless it be for a heavy draft horse. 
The nails should be driven well forward toward the toe. Clips 
are frequently the cause of obscure lameness, which it is difficult 

M 



98 

to manage. The clip is raised from the toe of the shoe, leaving the 
shoe flat at that point, so that if a circle were described from one 
quarter to the other, the clip would be found, perhaps, half an inch 
back from the arc of the circle; consequently, as the hoof meets 
resistance in its downward growth, it is turned inward, pressing 
upon the sensitive structure within, inflamation ensues, and other 
serious consequences follow. If clips are used they should be 
small, and set well forward, so as not to interfere with the natural 
circle of the hoof. 



Clinching and Finishing Off. 

After the nails are driven and bent down to keep them in their 
places, they should be cut off smoothly with the cutting nippers, 
leaving just enough projecting to form the clinches. Most smiths 
rasp a crease under the nails to receive the clinches. This has a 
tendency to weaken the crust at the very point where we need the 
most strength, besides giving it a bungling appearance. A much 
better way is to take out a little of the horn immediately under 
dereach nail, with. the point of a drawing knife; or, you can make 
a little tool shaped like a small gouge, which does the work nice 
and easy. Now, instead of clinching the nails with the hammer, 
as is usually done, have some tongs made for the purpose, while 
the under jaw rests upon the head of the nail, with the upper jaw 
you can catch the point, and bend the clinch into its place smooth 
and nice, and draw it as tight as is necessary without injuring 
the hoof. One would think, to see the rough and harsh manner 
that the hammer is frequently used in clinching the nails, that 
there was no feeling in the hoof. But let him just strike upon his 
finger nail with some hard substance several light blows, and he 
will realize something of the effect this rough hammering must 
have upon the hoof of the horse. 

Finally, the rasping of the hoof, which is usually practiced to 
give a finished or improved appearance to the foot, is injurious, 






99 

and should never be allowed. It weakens the crust, and causes 

# 

an unhealthy action on the surface of the hoof. At all events, the 
rasping should never be extended any higher upon the crust than 
the clinches. The nails should be slim and small, and be set well 
forward, so as not to interfere with the elasticity of the foot; and 
the shoe should be reset in from four to six weeks, or two months 
at the farthest. 



Over-reaching. 

This frequently occurs in young horses on a moderate gait, and 
disappears altogether on increasing their speed. It also occurs in 
young horses after severe driving, from the animal becoming leg- 
weary. A horse that is inclined to over-reach should not be over 
fatigued, until after he has acquired his full growth and strength. 
This habit arises from too great activity of the hind legs, the fore 
ones not being able to get out of the way. It is sometimes 
brought on, or at least made worse, by too light shoeing in front, 
and too heavy shoeing behind, the owner arguing that if the shoe 
is light, the horse will not have so much weight to lift, and will, 
as a consequence, be more likely to get the foot out of the way of 
the hind one. The reverse of this is the true principle. If the 
horse has a heavy shoe upon the forward foot, he will lift that foot 
with more energy, and throw it farther than if it held a light one. 
Many horses have been radically cured of this habit by simply 
placing heavy shoes in front and light ones behind. The toe- 
corks of the fore shoes should be a little higher than the heel- 
corks, while the toe of the hind shoe should be the lowest with 
•the heel-corks considerably raised. For the same reason as above, 
that with a high toe, the foot is lifted with more energy, and 
thrown farther than it would have been with the toe low. 



100 

Interfering. 

This habit, like over-reaching, is often caused in young animals 
by the horse becoming leg-weary, or from weakness. Or, per- 
haps, from some imperfection of the limb, the toe turning in or 
out too much. The first thing to ascertain, if possible, is the cause 
of the difficulty, and ai$o the part that strikes, whether the shoe 
or the hoof. By applying chalk to the foot, we readily discover 
the part that strikes. We must, then, deviate from the ordinary 
mode of shoeing by making the shoe straight at the point indi- 
cated, and by cutting away the wall to correspond. By this 
means the feet frequently work clear of each other. If this does 
not succeed, examine the position of the foot while standing, 
whether he toes in, or out. Also, notice how he lifts his foot while 
traveling; if the foot toes out, and he lifts it with a swinging mo- 
tion, you then want to make the inside cork the highest; this 
throws the ankle out, and prevents the swinging motion. On the 
other hand, if he toes in, and brings the foot straight forward, hit- 
ting with the toe, then make the outside cork the highest, which 
throws the ankle in and the foot out. The kind of shoeing that 
will cure one horse of this habit, may make another one worse. 



Shoeing for Quarter-Crack. 

If properly shod and with right treatment, there will be but lit- 
tle difficulty in growing out a sound hoof, but it will require care 
and good judgment. The horse should be shod precisely as 
directed for corns, for the reason that the least pressure upon the 
heel will have a tendency to open the crack every time he takes 
a step. (It might be well to put on a bar shoe.) Then with a rasp 
file at right angles across the crack, or rather above it, at the coro- 
net, until it bleeds. Examine the crack carefully to ascertain if 
the sensitive laminae is exposed, or if a portion of it is bruised 
and matter secreted; if so, pare away the edges a little and apply 



101 

butyr of antimony for a few days, putting in tow to keep out the 
dirt and sand; after which, apply tar and rosin, or pitch-pine gum 
is recommended. If the hoof is solid, drive two or three light, 
slim nails across the crack, and clinch on each side to hold it 
firmly together. If too brittle to hold the nails, fill the crack with 
any tar or pitch plaster, and wrap it with wax-ends, to keep it 
from expanding and opening the crack. Youatt says, " fill the 
crack with pitch and tow, then bind it together with coarse tape, 
then cover this with another coat of pitch, which may be moulded 
and polished so as to be scarcely distinguishable from the natural 
horn." 

The toe crack is much more difficult to heal, but requires the 
same general treatment. Such a foot lacks moisture, and should 
be soaked occasionally in warm water, afterwards wiped dry, and 
smeared with a mixture made of 8 oz. of neatsfoot oil, 4 oz. kero- 
sene, and 1 tablespoonful of lampblack. Dadd says, " this may 
be applied twice a day with a brush." 



Stopping the Feet. 

The hoof of a horse, standing upon a dry plank floor, especially 
in dry weather, soon becomes excessively dry and hard, The frog 
— acting like a sponge to take up moisture to supply the little water 
sacks, from which it is distributed to all parts of the foot through 
the sensitive laminge, keeping it moist and healthy — becomes dry; 
the supply of moisture is cut off, the hoof becomes hard, dry and 
brittle, and if taken to the shop in that state, it is almost impossi- 
ble for the smith to pare them. To prevent this, some stop the 
feet with cow-dung. But a much better material is linseed oil 
meal. It should be moistened with warm water, and may be used 
several times by moistening it each time. The feet should be 
stopped frequently in summer, and occasionally in the winter, in 
order to keep them moist and healthy. If the crust is brittle, it 



102 

is a good plan to apply to the feet a mixture of neatsfoot oil 
and spirits of tar, in equal parts. 

Dadd says : " There is no value in any of the materials used 
for this purpose, such as cow-dung or wet clay, except the mois- 
ture they contain; therefore, clean water is preferable. If the 
weather permits; apply cold water to the hoof often and freely ;" 
and if the hoof is brittle, or has a tendency to be hoof-bound, " wipe 
the foot dry, and apply with a sponge, kerosene oil and honey in 
equal parts, or neatsfoot oil and turpentine, equal parts." 



Pricking. 

If the smith should happen to drive a nail in such a way as to 
prick the sensitive part, he should, by all means, leave the hole 
open, and not drive a nail into it, so that if any matter should 
form from the injury, it may have a chance to work out, or serious 
consequences are almost sure to follow. If the horse becomes 
lame soon after being shod, examine the foot carefully to see if 
there is any heat or tenderness. Have the shoe taken off by 
drawing each nail separately and examine each one to see if 
there is any moisture on it. Having found the place, cut down 
to where the nail penetrated the sensitive part enough to make 
room for the discharge of any matter that may have formed. If 
much inflamed, poultice with flaxseed meal, until the inflammation 
subsides. Then dress with tar and rosin, or pitch; fill the open- 
ing with tow and put on the shoe again. 



Who is to Blame for Bad Shoeing. 

Those who have carefully perused the foregoing pages may get 
the idea that we are finding fault w T ith the blacksmith. On the 
contrary, we feel that the smiths have great reason to find fault 
with the horse owners. We will try to convey the idea by a sim- 



103 

pie illustration. We will suppose that "torn Skillful has estab- 
lished himself in your neighborhood. He has the best of tools, 
and everything convenient for doing first-class work. He has 
studied the anatomy of the horse's foot. He knows just the thick- 
ness of the crust in each part, and he knows how to prepare the 
toot for the shoe in the best possible manner. He knows how to 
make the best shaped shoe, and how to put it on in such a way as 
to do the least possible injury to the foot. He uses light, slim 
nails, and drives them near the toe. They are sufficiently strong 
to hold the shoe from six to eight weeks, which is longer than they 
should ever remain on the foot at one time. In short, he 
thoroughly understands his business, and prides himselt in doing 
it well. His prices are as low as he can afford for the amount of 
labor he expends upon his work. 

On the opposite side of the way is the shop ot John Bungler. 
He does everything with a rush and makes great pretensions, and 
brags of the amount of work he can turn off in a day. He 
wrenches off the shoe without stopping to raise the clinches, and 
with the butrass (which, by the way, is banished from nearly every 
respectable shop, or at least, ought to be), he slashes down the 
crust at the heels, and cuts away the bars. He makes a rough, 
heavy shoe, without form or comeliness; and, instead of fitting it 
to the foot, burns the foot to fit the shoe, and then nails it on with 
large, heavy nails, driven weil back in the quarters. His shoes 
will remain on the foot from six to eight months, or until the crust 
has grown away over on the outside of the shoe. The owners, in 
their stupid ignorance of the great amount of damage or injury 
that is being done to their horses feet, think that because his shoes 
wear and stay on the longest, he must be the best smith; and an- 
other very important consideration is, that he works for about 
half or two-thirds the price that his neighbor asks. The result is, 
while John Bungler is busy all the time, his neighbor, Tom Skill- 
ful is idle half his time, with nothing to do but to watch his best 
customers, as they go in and out ot neighbor Bungler's shop. 



104 

Is it a wonder then, that so many horses are made lame in the 
blacksmith's shop. What we need in this country is for farmers 
and horse owners to become educated on those subjects sufficiently 
to appreciate a scientific and skillful workman, and to under- 
stand and know when their horses are being injured, and their 
feet spoiled. This never will be until the veterinary science is 
elevated and encouraged, and made respectable. We are very, 
very far behind all of the European states in this respect, and the 
result is that nearly all of our best horses, are stiffened up, and 
broke down, at the age of ten or twelve years, instead of wearing 
and doing good service for twenty-five or thirty years. It cannot 
he expected that the smith at the forge can have the opportunity 
for scientific investigation, by which a correct knowledge of the 
anatomy and physiology of the foot can only be obtained. It is 
for the interest of farmers, and owners of horses, to put their 
shoulders to the wheel, and establish, endow, and sustain veteri- 
nary schools, by which means this most useful, but sadly neglected 
branch of education may be disseminated throughout the country. 



Diseases and their Remedies. 



While America seems to take the lead in mechanical inven- 
tions, in arts and sciences, in veterinary knowledge she is far be- 
hind all of the other civilized nations of the earth. While we 
have educated physicians in every nook and corner of the land 
to attend to the various ailments ot the human family, you may 
go hundreds of miles without finding a man that has the necessary 
knowledge, the skill and experience, to successfully relieve your 
noble and valuable animals of the pains, the aches, the disease and 
death, that has so long run riot among them. The physician that 
prescribes for the human family has every advantage over the 
veterinary surgeon. His patients are well cared for, and can tell 
where the aches and pains are situated, while the poor, dumb 
animals are deprived of the power of speech, and the doctor can 
only judge of the case by the signs and symptoms that present 
themselves. And again, many animals have to live in places en- 
tirely unfitted for healthy animal life, and they do not receive that 
care and good nursing, which is so necessary for the restoration 
of health. We have plenty of ignorant professional men who 
know just enough to blister and bleed, and take away the little 
life that is left in the sick and dying animal. It is acknowledged 
by all rational practitioners, that nature is the great healer of 
diseases.' Therefore, the study should be in all cases to aid nature. 
It is far better to study nature's laws, and use common sense, and 
good nursing, and let the medicines entirely alone, than to employ 
those ignorant " vets " who know just enough to destroy the little 
remaining life with poisonous and destructive medicines. Dadd 
says: "Don't place too much reliance on art and medicines. 



106 

The physician does much good when he practices rationally, con- 
stitutes himself the servant of nature, does her bidding, and does 
the system no harm in the use of poisonous and meddlesome 
medication. Many persons seem to think that the amount of 
good done is in proportion to the quantity of medicine adminis- 
tered, while in a very great majority of cases the very reverse 
is the case. * * * 

" We enter our solemn protest against the unwarrantable use of 

the lancet or knife in veterinary practice. It is a disgrace to 
humanity, an outrage on the rights and privileges of that noble ani- 
mal, the horse, over whom God has given us dominion and 
power — not to abuse and render their life a weary toil, and extort 
from them all the labor we can, but to protect them, to adminis- 
ter to their wants and necessities, and render their condition as 
happy as possible. A moral responsibility rests on every man 
to see that the claims which these poor creatures have upon our 
race are respected; that their rights are not violated; that, when 
sick and in a dying condition, they shall be treated with mercy, 
and be protected from their tormentors, the unmerciful phleboto- 
mists. Any misguided man who can draw from the veins of an 
emaciated or dying horse the little blood they contain should be 
sent to the insane asylum, and never again be permitted to dis- 
grace the noble nature of man. We can respect the man who 
conscientiously practices blood-letting ; but where is the medical 
man who can conscientiously bleed a dying brute with a view of 
saving life ?" 

It is a lamentable fact that the veterinary service in this country 
has fallen into disrepute. It is looked upon as a low business, 
and for a man to have the reputation of being a good horse doctor 
would close the doors of nearly all good society against him. The 
The result is, that with a few exceptions, the educated men are 
driven from the profession, and it has been handed over into the 
hands of ignorent and unprincipled men. Farmers, and owners 
of horses generally, are so thoroughly ignorant upon this subject 
that they cannot appreciate a scientific practitioner, or know 



107 

whether a man understands his profession or not. We need a very 
great reform in this matter. We ought to have veterinary schools 
endowed and sustained in every part of the land, and this branch 
of science encouraged and made respectable. In the absence 
of this, let every farmer and owner of horses post himself up. Let 
them avail themselves of the knowledge that may be had at a 
trifling cost. Let all read, and think, and use common sense, 
and much suffering will be relieved and many valuable lives 
, saved. 



Lampas in Colts. 

The question is often asked, are Lampas a disease ? We would 
ask if the swollen and inflamed condition of a child's gums while 
teething is a disease. The outrageous, cruel, and barbarous prac- 
tice of burning the roof of the colt's mouth is just as sensible as 
it would be to burn the mouth of a child under similar circum- 
stances. Dadd says : " If the colt's mouth is hot and tender 
while teething, sponge it out frequently with equal parts of vinegar 
and water, and when the teeth are seen to press hard upon the mem- 
branes of the mouth, make a slight incision over the point of the 
tooth, which will give immediate relief. Treat him exactly as 
you would treat your child under similar circumstances." 



Sore Mouth. 

Wash the parts frequently with hot water, as hot as the horse 
will bear it ; then apply alum-water, or equal parts of tincture of 
myrrh, tincture of aloes, and water. If the mouth becomes sore 
from uneven teeth which cut the mouth, file off the sharp edges. 



Wolf Teeth. 

There is more difference of opinion upon this, than upon 
almost any other subject. Nearly all the veterinary surgeons 
of the present day agree that they do not affect the eyes. 
The Wolf Tooth is a small-pointed, dark colored tooth, found 



108 

just forward of the first upper molar or grinder. They should 
be extracted with forceps, but never knocked out. Youatt gives 
the most sensible solution of the wolf tooth, of anything we have 
found. He says : u That as the permanent teeth rise up gradually 
under the first or milk teeth, and press upon the roots or fangs, 
the portions pressed upon gradually disappear. It is absorbed 
taken up, and carried awaj T , by the numerous little vessels whose 
office it is to get rid of the worn out, or useless parts of the sys- 
tem. This absorbtion continues until the tooth, having nothing 
to hold it in its place, drops out. In a few cases, however, the 
permanent teeth do not rise directly under the first teeth, in which 
case it is crowded out of its place, and remains sticking in the 
gums, causing swelling and soreness. This is called a wolf tooth, 
and should be extracted." 



Quitters. 

Quitter is caused by a wound in the foot, such as a prick from 
a nail in shoeing, or otherwise, or from a cut with a piece of glass 
or any other sharp substance, or from any cause that may wound 
or bruise the foot so as to cause suppuration or matter to collect 
inside the hoof. Youatt sa3 7 s, " the most frequent cause is from 
nails in shoeing, either penetrating into the quick, or being driven 
so close as to press upon the sensitive parts, and cause irritation, 
and at length the secretion of matter within." The horn, being 
of an elastic nature, the small aperture that was made is imme- 
diately closed, leaving no place for the pent-up matter to dis- 
charge ; consequently, it accumulates and spreads, and increases 
in quantity, until it has penetrated under a portion of the car- 
tilages and ligaments, has forced the little fleshy plates of the 
coffin-bone from the horny one3 of the crust, and perhaps cut into 
the coffin-joint and produced ulcers, in every part of which it is 
very difficult to heal. At length it forces its way upwards and 
breaks out at the coronet, and is called Quitter. From the small 






109 

amount of matter discharged, the inexperienced person would 
form no idea of the extent of the mischief within, or of the difficulty 
of repairing the damage. Had the foot been examined at the first 
appearance of lameness, the injury might easily have been re- 
moved by simply making a small opening in the sole for the dis- 
charge of the matter in a downward direction, and the opening 
dressed with soap and sugar, or any pitch or rosin paste, and a 
little tow pressed in to keep out the dirt. No one who knows the 
thinness of the crust would be surprised if the smith should oc- 
casionally prick the sensitive part. In these cases the shoe should 
be immediately removed, and the opening enlarged so as to ad- 
mit of the discharge of any matter that might accumulate. Ap- 
ply a little tar and rosin, nail on the shoe, and no harm has been 
done. But that smith is deserving the severest execrations and 
punishment who would conceal or deny what he knows has been 
done, for fear of blame or censure, when he knows, or ought to 
know, the serious consequences that are sure to follow. In nine- 
teen cases out of twenty, what is supposed to be gravel in the foot, 
is caused by the prick from a nail. 

Treatment — First, poultice the foot for two or three days to 
soften the hoof ; then, with a sharp knife cut away all of the 
diseased and loosened portions of the horn. This requires great 
skill and care, not to disturb any of the sound or live portions 
that adhere to the fleshy parts within, while every particle of the 
dead or loosened horn must be taken away. This being done, 
some recommend to syringe the part with a solution of 2 dr. of 
chloride of zinc in 1 pint o't water ; or, with glycerine. Youatt 
says : u The fleshy parts should be touched lightly with the butyr 
of antimony, then tow laid upon the place which may be kept in 
its place with bandages. If there is much inflammation, put a 
poultice of flax-seed meal over all; the next day apply another 
light dressing of the butyr of antimony, and place the tow over 
it so as to afford considerable, but uniform pressure. In a few 
days a new horn will cover the whole of the wound." 



110 

A triend of ours in Canada has been very successful in treating 
several cases of this kind, which have come under our immediate 
notice, with tar and rosin. One instance was a horse that be- 
longed to a livery establishment. After taking away all of the 
old horn (about half of the sole and some of the crust), he had an 
attendant hold up the foot while he took a hot iron in one hand, 
and a lump of rosin in the other, then by pressing the rosin on the 
iron, he run the melted rosin into the wound, then put on a layer 
of tow, and then more rosin, and finished it off with a coating of 
tar and rosin mixed, pressed a piece of leather into it while warm, 
which was large enough to cover the whole foot, then nailed on 
a bar shoe, and the horse worked every day after it in the livery, 
and showed no signs of lameness. On examining it, a few days 
after, it was found that a new horn had formed all over the 
wound. 



Navicular Joint Lameness. 

The navicular or shuttle bone, is a small bone that grows just 
back of the lower joint of the foot, where the coffin bone unites 
with the lower pastern bone. It is placed in a position to support 
the coffin joint, and gives to it very great strength and elasticity. 
It also forms a kind of joint with the flexon tendon, which passes 
over it, and is inserted into and grows fast to the bottom of the 
coffin bone. Now, if this tendon becomes strained or bruised 
from any cause, the parts become irritated and inflamed, the mem- 
brane and cartilage that covers the bone are destroyed, the bone 
itself becomes diseased or decayed, and a rough, bony adhesion 
takes place between the navicular, the pastern, and the coffin 
bone, which injures and bruises the parts at every step. Hence, 
the short tripping gate, the horse stands upon the toe, with an 
evident effort to favor the heel. Contraction is said to be the 
cause of the difficulty. But we believe the most fruitful cause of 
the mischief may be traced to the practice of paring down the 



Ill 

heel until the foot stands in tbe same position that a man would 
if the heel was taken from his boot and nailed upon the toe. An 
undue stress is thrown upon the tendon, which becomes strained 
and bruised ; the elasticity of the foot is destroyed, and as a con- 
sequence, that hidden lameness that has puzzled the veterinary 
practitioners so much to account for, contraction is the result, in- 
stead of the cause of the mischief. Dadd says : 

"The animal,while standing, throws the affected foot forward, by 
which means the weight of the fore part of the body is transferred to 
the other limb; the animal has a short, tripping gait, and steps cau- 
tiously ; the muscles of the shoulder waste ; the spine of the 
shoulder-blade becomes quite prominent, and this condition of 
the muscles is often called sweeny. It will be observed, also, that 
the animal, when traveling, takes short steps, goes on the toe, and 
tries to favor the heel, or posterior parts, as much as possible. 
The favoring of the heel tends to destroy the function of expansi- 
bility of the hoof, and contraction of the same is the result. 

"Treatment — We first ascertain whether the difficulty is of an 
acute or chronic character. Should it have made its appearance 
very suddenly, and the part feels hot and painful, then we class 
it as the acute stage. Should the trouble, however, be of long 
standing, it will be in the chronic stage. In the acute stage, cold 
water bandages must be applied to the region of the fetlock, which 
should be kept wet with water, to which may be added a little 
vinegar, merely to acidulate the former, or the foot should be placed 
in a boot, lined with a sponge. The latter is to be kept constantly 
wet with a portion of vinegar and water, equal parts. This may 
be continued for a period of twenty-fours, at the end of which 
time bathe the coronet and heels with tincture of arnica. The 
patient should be kept at rest, and fed on light diet. In the 
chronic stage, counter-irritants are indicated, yet organic disease 
may be the result; in that event the horse always has a sort of 
groggy walk, and is never sound, 

"Neurotomy has been practiced in view of treating this affec- 



112 

tion, but I cannot perceive how such an operation can benefit a 
horse having an organic difficulty. Neurotomy merely destroys, 
for a short time, the sensibility of certain parts of the foot ; but so 
soon as the divided nerve reunites, sensibility is again restored 
There may, however, occur some form of lameness, which might 
be benefitted by neurotomy, but I think the same thing might be 
achieved by counter-irritation, and without the use of the knife. 
The counter-irtitant I have found the most useful is as follows : 

Cod-liver oil 2 oz. 

Kerosene 3 oz. 

Cantharides 1 dr. 

Mix. 

u Apply a portion of the above to the navicular region, between 
the heels and fetlock, on the back part, once or twice daily, until 
the part is well blistered, which will take place at the end of a 
week. The more thorough the blistering, the more chance there 
is of doing good. No after-dressing need be applied, unless the 
parts become very sore ; in that event, I should lubricate with 
olive oil." 



Thrush, or Rotte Frog. 

This disease may be known by a discharge of offensive matter 
from the cleft of the frog. Sometimes it is so slight as scarcely to 
attract attention, and does not always cause lameness, especially 
in its early stages, but it should not be neglected, or it will event- 
ually end in serious difficulty. It is said to be caused by unclean- 
liness, by the horse standing in filth, or the reasons given for 
navicular joint lameness may have a tendency to produce it. 

Treatment — Wash the parts well with castile soap and warm 
water, then apply powdered sulphate of copper, fill the cleft with 
cotton or tow, to keep out the dirt. In more severe cases, prepare 
a paste, by thoroughly mixing together one pound of tar, and two 
pounds of lard, two oz. of blue vitrei, and one oz. of white virtrol 
(which must be pulverized as fine as possible). Now wash as be- 



113 



fore, wipe dry, then take a pledget of cotton or tow, cover it with 
the paste, and press it snugly (but not too hard) into the cleft of 
the frog every night, and remove it in the morning before the 
horse goes to his work. 



Canker. 



Canker is a separation of the horn from the sensitive part of 
foot, and a secretion or sprouting of a fleshy fungus substance, 
instead of horn. Jt is generally the result of a neglected thrush. 
Youatt says, " where this disease exists there has been gross mis- 
management somewhere. It is very difficult to cure, requiring 
the utmost skill in its management. Every particle of the horn 
that is separated from the sensitive parts within must be carefully 
cut away, and the fleshy fungus removed with the knife. Apply 
butyr of antimony to the parts as long as there is a disposition 
to secrete the fleshy fungus. But it must not touch where the new 
horn is forming." The parts must be carefully protected from 
moisture or dust by bandages, or a leather boot. Others recom- 
mend applying a paste made of tar and rosin, equal parts, melted 
over a slow fire, to which is added, slowly, sulphuric acid, until 
effervescence, or boiling, ceases ; or collodion and castor-oil, equal 
parts, is recommended. The same treatment that is recommended 
for quitters might be followed after the tendency to secrete the 
fleshy fungus is overcome. 



Inflammation. 

Dadcl says : " Inflammation of itself is not a disease, but an at- 
tendant upon nearly all diseases. It is a friendly action caused 
by the efforts of nature to repair the injury done to the system. 
It is nature's signal of distress as she calls loudly for help." It 
is usually attended by pain, swellings, heat, or redness. The old 



114 

method of treating inflammation by bleeding and physicing (as 
practiced and recommended by Youatt, and others), only reduces 
the vitality, leaving the system in a weakened state, an easy prey 
to the disease which was the first cause of the inflammation. 
Anything which destroys the equilibrium of the circulation, will 
cause inflammation. If we can in any way restore the free circu- 
lation of the blood in all parts of the system, the cure is effected. 
The only means of accomplishing this is by the use of warmth, 
moisture, stimulants, and friction, thus aiding and strengthening 
nature, by the use of nature's means, instead of reducing and 
weakening it by the use of the fleam and cathartics. If the ex- 
tremities, or parts of the body are cold, use vigorous friction and 
keep the parts well covered with extra clothing to induce warmth. 
Upon those parts of the body that are unnaturally hot, use cold 
applications, wet packs, etc. If the inflammation is internal, 
accompanied with a desire for drink, let nature be the guide ; give 
all the cold or tepid water he will drink, and use injections of 
tepid water, at the same time keeping up a vigorous friction on 
the surface, together with warm clothing. You will thus equal- 
ize the circulation ot the blood, cure the inflammation, and in 
most cases, cure the disease which was the first cause of the 
inflammation. 



Itch or Mange. 

The cheapest, and probably the safest, plan of treatment, and 

that which has proved most successful in the practice of the 

author, is as follows : 

Unslaked lime, - - 1 lb. 

Flour ot sulphur, 2 lbs. 

Water, - 12 pts. 

Put these ingredients in a stone jar, set it on the stove, or in a 
regular water bath, until it boils, During the interval, the mix- 
ture must be constantly stirred, both in view of insuring a complete 



115 

mixture, and of keeping the lime and sulphur from depositing in 
the bottom of the jar; for, should this occur, the jar will crack. 
The mixture must be stirred with a wooden spatula or glass rod. 
Keep the mixture boiling for about ten or fifteen minutes; then 
set it aside for twelve hours, at the end of which time pour off the 
clear liquor, bottle tightly, and cork the bottles. These should 
be put away in a dark closet, as the mixture soon decomposes 
when exposed to the sun's rays. This remedy will cure the itch 
on horses and cattle. It is, also, a sure cure when used on man. 
It is not adapted to the cure of the malady in sheep, as the sulphur 
is supposed to be injurious to wool. The only objection to its use 
is, that it has a very unpleasant odor — smells like sulphureted 
hydrogen. Before applying this mixture, the animal should be 
thoroughly washed with warm water and common brown soap ; 
then wipe the animal dry, and apply the sulphur mixture, by 
means of a sponge. One application, if properly applied, will 
usually suffice to kill the parasites. Should it fail in the first in- 
stance, a re-application will do no harm, as the preparation is 
perfectly inocuous. 



Sore Eyes. 

Treatment — For the treatment of purulent ophthalmia Dadd 
recommends the following lotion : 

Powdered chlorate of potass - i oz. 

Fluid extract of matico - - 1 oz. 

Water - - - - 8 oz. 
Mix. 

A portion of this lotion should be applied to the eyes, by means 
of a soft sponge, two or three times a day ; the eyes as well as 
the lids must, however, be previously cleansed with lukewarm 
water. The patient should have a few doses of fluid extract ot 
poke-root. About half an ounce of the extract, night and morn- 
ing will suffice, which will act as an alternative. 



116 
Lockjaw. 

While in the city of St. Louis, a short time ago, I was requested 
to visit a bay gelding, aged eight years, the property of Captain 
Silva. The messenger informed me, not knowing that it was a 
case of tetanus, that the horse was " all stiffened up/' On an 
examination, the following symptoms were presented : The mus- 
cles in the region of the neck and back, rigid ; the eyes had a 
sort of squinting appearance ; the nose protruded ; the ears were 
erect and stationary ; the nostrels were expanded to their utmost 
capacity ; the head, neck, and trunk seemed to be immovable, so 
that it was impossible to make him turn in any direction, or 
:ribe the least segment of a circle. The abdomen appeared 
" tucked up," as the saying is. This arose from the rigid state of 
the mnscles of the abdomen. The hind limbs presented a strad- 
dling appearance, and the fore ones were unnaturally advanced 
far beyond the axis of the shoulder-blade ; the bowels were con- 
stipated ; the pulse was wiry, and the respirations were acceler- 
ated and laborious. The case was diognosed as tetanus from punc- 
ture of the off hind foot. It appears that the animal had picked up 
a nail, five days previous, which was withdrawn by a blacksmith, 
and the foot was dressed in the usual way. The treatment was 
as follows : 

The rigid muscles were rubbed, twice daily, with a portion of 
the following antispasmodic liniment : 



Cod-liver oil 


- Yl 


Oil of cedar - 


i oz. 


Sulphuric either - 


Z oz. 



The application of the liniment was continued during a period 
of ten days, in which time four drachms of Indian hemp were 
daily placed on the tongue. The jaws now relaxed, so that the 
patient could eat bran mashes. At the expiration of two weeks 
all signs of tetanus had disappeared. 



117 

Stringhalt. 

Treatment — In stringhalt, it is nearly always sale for us to con- 
clude that it must be treated on the same general principles which 
obtain in the management of other nervous disorders of a chronic 
character, viz.: in the use of tonics, and antispasmodics. Take 
for example : 

Fluid extract valerian ) , , 

Fluid extract of poplar bark f e( l uai P arts ' 

Does, one ounce, morning and evening ; to be placed on the 
tongue. The spine and affected limb or limbs should be rubbed 
every night for a couple of weeks, with a portion of the following : 

Fluid extract of poppies - - 6 oz. 
Proof spirit - - - - 1 pt. 
Mix. 

Should the animal prove to be spavined, the following liniment 
is recommended : 

Cod- liver oil - - } i ■ , 

Kerosene oil - - ^ equal parts. 

Mix. 

A small quantity of this liniment should be rubbed on the seat 
of spavin, inside of the hock, once or twice daily, until counter- 
irritation is accomplished, which shall be known in consequence 
of the hair falling off; then discontinue the liniment, and lubri- 
cate the affected parts with olive oil, and wait patiently, so as to 
see what nature will do for the case. "Patient waiters are no 
losers." The popular, or rather the ancient, method of treatment 
does more harm than good. 



Stomach Staggers. 

This disease arises from an overloaded condition of the stomach 
causing a pressure upon the heart and lungs, thus interfering with 
the free circulation of the blood, causing stupor, and a disposition 



118 

to pitch forward, resting the head against the wall, or any object 

that may be in his way. Dadd says : 

" The proposition of cure is, that the digestive function shall be 

aroused, and the only way to accomplish that is by administering 

bitter tonics and stimulents. In this view, the following prercrip- 

tion is offered : 

Fluid extract of black pepper - 4 oz. 

Fluid extract of ginger - - 6 oz. 

Hyposulphite of soda - - 2 oz. 

Water - - . - - 4 oz. 

Dissolve the hyposulphate in water, then add the pepper and 

ginger. Give the animal a wine-glassful every four hours. A 

stimulating injection may be thrown into the rectum occasionally, 

composed of a handful of fine salt to about four quarts of water. 

The animal should be allowed to stand quietly in the stall, and 

the medicine must be given with care, for the least excitement 

may augment the cerebral difficulty. So soon as the medicine 

arouses the digestive function, and the food gradually passes the 

pylorus into the intestines, the amimal will obtain relief. Both 

food and water should be withheld until there is some marked 

improvement ; the patient has had enough food for sometime, and 

watei only retards digestion." 



Cough. 



Treatment of Chronic Cough — Give the patient daily one ounce 
of the fluid extract of Indian hemp (foreign), and offer him occa- 
sionally some flaxseed tea ; or sprinkle in his food, every night, 
a handful of unground flaxseed. Should this fail to effect a cure 
prepare the following : 

Fluid extract of bloodroot - 4 oz. 

Fluid extract of pleurisy-root - - 6 oz. 

Common syrup - h pt. 

Mix. 

Dose, two ounces per day. 



119 

The acute cough may be treated in the same manner as above, 
by substituting for the syrup half a pine of syrup of squills. 

In the case of liver disease, accompanied by cough, give the 
animal once ounce of fluid extract of mandrake every six hours, 
until it operates on the bowels, or the membranes of the mouth 
lose their yellow tinge. 



Acute Diseases of the Eye. 

In the early stage of this disease, and when scalding tears run 
copiously over the cheeks, we denominate it catarrhal ophthalmia. 
The disease is not of a serious nature, but often becomes so in 
consequence of the outrageous treatment practiced, such as bleed- 
ing, purging, and the local application of the lunar caustic. The 
proper mode of treatment is to keep the patient on a light diet, 
and occasionally bathe the region of the eye with an infusion of 
poppies or hops ; sometimes with tepid or cold water 5 as the case 
may seem to indicate, according to the rational judgment of the 
owner of the afflicted animal. 



Glanders and Farcy. 

Dadd says : " These diseases are contageous, not only to the 
horse, but may readily be communicated to man," He gives 
several cases of horrible deaths from this terrible disease. But, 
fortunately, it is very rare in this country. He says that many 
persons u declare their horses to be subjects of glanders, simply 
because they had enlarged glands under the jaw, and a nasal 
discharge ; and, by a successful treatment of the same he has had 
the credit of curing glanders;," a feat which he (Dadd) never pre- 
tends to have accomplished. 



120 
Lice on Horses. 

The remedy I have found most efficacious is composed of 

Crude Cod-liver oil - - 1 pt. 

Pulverized lobelia - - - 2 oz. 
Mix. 

This should be thoroughly rubbed all over the body by means 
of a stiff brush ; at the expiration of four hours, carefully wash 
the horse all over with soft soap and warm water. It may be neces- 
sary to make a second and even a third application, on successive 
days, ere the parasites are killed. The parasites can be seen with 
the naked eye ; therefore the owner of the horse must be the judge 
as regards the number of applications needed. 



Hide Bound. 

Treatment — The best remedy, if the season permits, is a run at 
grass, taking care to give a good feed of oats every night ; other- 
wise the grass will not improve his condition. In the stable the 
treatment is as follows : Give the animal one ounce of the fluid 
extract of camomile flowers every morning, before feeding, and 
at night mix one ounce of powdered poplar bark with the oats. 
This, together with good food and rest, will complete the cure. 



Poll Evil. 

This disease arises from blows or bruises from any cause on the 
top of the head, or nape of the neck. 

" Treatment — Should the tumor be discovered in its early stage, 
before matter has formed, the parts should be bathed often with 
a portion of vinegar and water, equal parts ; or else a cold water 
dressing or pad may be applied, which should be reapplied as fast 
as it becomes dry. Half an ounce of powdered chlorate of potass 



121 

should be given night and morning. This may be dissolved in 
half a bucket of water, which the horse will drink. In the course 
of a couple of days, the practitioner will be able to determine 
whether or not the tumor is likely to suppurate ; if so, it will have 
increased in size, and have a soft fluctuating feel. 

" Just as soon as matter can be detected, the abscess must be 
punctured at its base, by means of a thumb lancet. It will not 
do to allow the matter to accumulate ; for, if so, it will burrow 
and spread in various directions, making a very extensive and 
formidable abscess. It would be necessary to make a free open- 
ing into the abscess large enough to admit a man's finger, and if, 
in the course of a day or two the opening should partly close or 
contract, it must be dilated with a knife. So soon as the abscess 
is laid open, all the matter must be squeezed out, which process 
must be accomplished by the use of sponge and hot water. We 
then, in view of removing every particle of matter, carefully in- 
ject the cavity with a quautity of pyroligneous acid water, equal 
parts. A glass syringe is best, as the acid has a bad effect on a 
metal one. 

" It will be necessary to sponge the cavity once daily tor several 
days, or until matter ceases to form. In the meantime the ani- 
mal must be put under treatment, for it is very rare that this 
disease can be cured by local treatment alone. My usual custom 
is to give the patient thirty grains of the iodide of potass, twice 
daily, in half a bucket of water. The animal will not refuse to 
drink it. Should he be weak and emaciated, tonics and stim- 
ulants are indicated. Half an ounce of powdered golden seal, 
and the same quantity of ginger, given with a small quantity of 
water, as a drench, daily, will answer the purpose. Sometimes 
it is advisable to put a pad of cotton cloth, or a large wad of oakum 
on the poll, in view of keeping the skin and sub-tissues in contact, 
by which means they more readily unite. The pad may be 
secured to the part by passing a cotton roller, five inches wide 
and. three yards in length, around the neck. At the poll the ban- 



122 

dage is to be further secured, by tying a lock of the hair of the 
forehead with a lock of the hair of the mane. This precaution 
prevents the bandage from slipping backward. The bandage 
should be removed and readjusted every day, and the parts are 
to be cleansed and syringed, in the manner just alluded to, as long 
as necessary. After the lapse of a few days, should the secre- 
tion of matter decrease, then the chances are in favor of a cure. 

%i Cases, however, will sometimes occur which set at defiance all 
our skill. In such we find that either the ligamentary, tendinous, 
or fleshy parts, or perhaps the bones, are involved, and it often 
happens that fistulas or pipes run in various directions. Such 
cases require the service of a surgeon, who will dissect out the 
fistulous pipes, and remove all the diseased portions of the flesh 
and bone. The after treatment is then the same as we have just 
indicated. 



Fistolous Withers. 

This disease resembles poll evil, and in a majority of cases, 
owes its origin to the same exciting causes ; namely, external 
bruises, or injury inflicted by a bad fitting collar or saddle. The 
treatment is the same as that recommended for the cure of poll- 
evil. 



Warts. 



If small, they may be cut off with a knife or scissors, and the 
roots touched with caustic or a hot iron. If large, a strong thread 
may be tied tightly around it, and it will soon drop off ; or, a few 
applications of per-manganate of potash will destroy them, when 
they may be removed with a knife. 



Swelled Legs. 

Treatment — The remedies are hand-rubbing, exercise, and stim, 
nlating liniment. The best liniment for local dropsy of this 






123 

character is as follows : 

Fluid extract of wormwood - 4 oz. 
Fluid extract of ginger - - - 3 oz. 
Spirits of camphor - - 1 pt. 

Eub the region of tumefaction with a portion of this liniment 
every night. 

When swelling ot the limbs do not assume a periodical char- 
acter, and suspicion of predisposition cannot be entertained, then, 
in addition to the application of the liniment, give the animal, 
morning and evening, one ounce of the fluid extract of buchu. 



Bots. 



Nature, has endowed these parasites with such tenacity of 
life, that no matters known to us will effect their destruction, 
though a few may answer the purpose of their expulsion, Bots 
are so hardy as apparently to survive immersion in oil, in alco- 
hol, spirits of turpentine, and even powerful solutions of mineral 
acids. The continued use of salt, mixed with the food, appears, 
however, obnoxious to them ; for sometimes, under its use, their 
hold gives way, and they are ejected. Bitters, purgative, and 
the mechanical irritation of pointed bodies, as pewter, tin, etc., 
have no effect whatever upon bots. 

When the horse is attacked with pains which are supposed to 
be from bots, we would recommend the following remedy : 
Sweet milk, one pint ; molasses, half pint ; cowage, one drachm. 
Sometimes the milk and molasses will have the desired effect. 
Cowage is an old remedy for worms in children. When it is 
used the bottle should be inserted well into the mouth, and care 
taken not to get any of it on the lips, or it will cause a pricking 
sensation, like nettles. 



Worms. 

Symptoms — The usual symptoms indicating the presence of 
worms in the intestinal canal are, sometimes, a scurfy, yellow 



124 

mucous accumulation around the margin of the annus ; the appe- 
tite is not uniform ; the bowels are irregular, sometimes loose, and 
sometimes constipated ; and the feces are often shrouded with 
shreds of mucus, of a yellow color. When ascarides are present 
(located in the rectum), the horse is much inclined to rub his tail 
against any post or fence he can get at, and he employs himself 
at such feats against the sides of the stall, in view, probably, of 
allaying the intolerable itching which usually attends the presence 
of these parasites. 

The lumbrici, or round worms, sometimes exist in the intes- 
tines in great numbers. They are then apt to be hurtful. In such 
cases, the coat looks unthrifty, and the hair has lost its natural 
glossiness, and appears rough to the sense of touch. It has been 
noticed, also, that when horses are afflicted with intestinal para- 
sites, their breath gives out a fetid odor, and they have a sort of 
dry, hacking cough. It is well known, however, that some horses, 
enjoying, apparently, the very best kind of health, are often the 
subjects of worms. 

Treatment- — Most of the remedies recommended in the ancient 
works on farriery are just about as likely to kill the horse as the 
parasites, and consequently are, to say the least, unsafe. The 
true theory is this : worms are the result of indigestion ; hence 
our object, by way of prevention, is to give tone to the digestive 
organs ; and soon after the worms have congregated in the intes- 
tinal canal, bitter tonics and alteratives are obnoxious to them. 
They then die, are digested, and pass from the anus as fecal 
matter. 

Suppose we give the infested horse powerful purges, tartar 
emetic, calomel, turpentine, etc., as the books recommends. We 
may succeed in their expulsion, but that does not mend the mat- 
ter ; for the agents just named are all more or less prostrating, 
and create a worse state of digestive derangement than that which 
previously existed, and soon, by virtue of spontaneous generation, 
a new crop of parasites make their appearance. 






125 

When a horse shows any of the symptons here alluded to, in- 
dicating indigestion, or the actnal presence of worms, I recom 
mend that an occasional dose ot the following be given : 

Powdered poplar bark (populus tremuloides) ] 
Powdered sulphur - - - - > equal parts.. 

'Powdered salt - . - ) 

Mix. 
Dose, one table-spoonful, to be mixed with bran or oats. 

EXAMPLES OF VERMIFUGES. . 

!No. 1 — Fluid extract of wormwood, four drachms ; to be given 
in the morning, before feeding time, for several successive days. 

No. 2 — Give once of fluid extract of pink-root, every morning, 
before feeding, for a week. 

A GOOD REMEDY FOR TAPE-WORM. 

Give four drachms of the solid extract of male fern (aspidium 
felix mas) every other morning, during a period of about ten 
days. This is said to be a specific for tape-worm. 



Inflammation of the Kidneys. 

Symptoms — Hard and accelerated puise ; quickened respira- 
tion, indicative of pain ; back, arched ; legs, straddling ; the 
head is often turned toward the loins, or region of pain ; the ani- 
mal is unwilling to describe a circle with its body, and while the 
acute stage lasts, scarcely, if ever gets down on the floor ; the 
urine is reddened and scanty ; finally the animal crouches when 
pressure is made over the region of the loins, an£, as is the case 
in all acute affections, thirst and loss of appetite are observable. 

Treatment — The treatment of inflammation of the kidneys, in 
the acute or inflammatory stage, is just such as would be proper 
supposing the case to be one of enteritis, or peritonitis. Twenty 
or forty drops of fluid extract of gelseminum may be placed on 
the tongue two or three times, at intervals of four hours ; fomen- 
tations of hops or poppy-heads (warm) should be applied to the 



126 

loins, and occasional enemas of warm water may be thrown into 
rectum. The drink should consist of what is known as flaxseed 
or slippery-elm tea. Soon the inflammatory symptoms will sub- 
side, the patient will manifest some relief from pain, and the color 
of the urine will change, become lighter and thicker in consis- 
tence. We then discontinue the above treatment, and administer 
one ounce of fluid extract of buchu, morning and evening. This 
treatment, aided by rest and good nursing, usually completes the 
cure. 

Should it be suspected that the animal has a fit of pain, caused 
by the "gravel," or passage or presence of urinary calculi, then 
two drachms of muriatic acid should be mixed ill the ordinary 
drink, every time the animal is watered. He should also have 
a small quantity of powdered slippery-elm or flaxseed mixed with 
the food. Horses the subjects of urinary catculi pass urine, which, 
on being caught in an earthen vessel, deposits phosphates and 
other earthly matter. When this occurs, and the animal has a 
fit of pain or gravel, we may infer, in the absence of more positive 
proof, that urinary calculi are present in some portion of the 
urinary apparatus. • 



Inflammation of the Bladder. 

The principal symptom of inflammation of the bladder is fre- 
quent urination, accompanied by straining and pain. Sometimes 
th« urine dribbles away, involuntary or not as the case may be. 
It appears that the least distension of the bladder causes pain ; 
hence the effort to keep it empty. The urine is usually high- 
colored, or, rather, of a dull red color. The animal stands with 
his hind limbs widely separated. The treatment is precisely the 
same as that just recommended for inflammation of the kidneys. 



127 

Retention of Urine. 

Treatment — In most of these cases we find the neck of the 
bladder spasmodically contracted. The spasm may be either 
primary or it may accompany spasmodic cholic, which is often 
the case. In fact, some animals, when suffering from . retention 
of urine, act just as if they had colic ; hence it is, in such cases, 
highly necessary that the bladder be examined by introducing a 
hand into the rectum. By this means, should the bladder be dis- 
tented, it can easily be discovered. The catheter must then be 
introduced, or the animal will die from rupture of the bladder. 
Provided no catheter should be at hand, I would throw into the 
rectum copious enemas of warm water, and administer one or two 
ounces of tincture of assafetida as an antispasmodic, which may 
possibly have the desired effect. 



Profuse Urination. 

An animal the subject of diabetes is usually very thirsty. The 
urine is light-colored, almost transparent. It has not the ordinary 
odor of common urine, but something like musty hay. 

Treatment — The indications in the treatment of this affection 
are, to give tone to the system and sustain the general health. A 
drachm or two of the sulphate of iron may be occasionally mixed 
with the oats (the latter must be of the best quality), and one 
ounce of the fluid extract of buchu may be given every night. 
Good wholesome food and an occasional drink of slippery-elm 
tea are also indicated. Should the disease not yield to such treat- 
ment as this, the case may be considered incurable. 



Curbs. 



Treatment — So soon as the injury is discovered, the part should 
be fomented often with either an infusion of hops or poppy-heads. 
It is best to apply the iniusion cold, and by means of a sponge, 



128 

the animal being kept at rest during the acute stage. Sometimes, 

in view of relieving the tension of the sprained ligament, it is 

customary to tack on a high-heeled shoe. This may or may not 

be necessary, and depends on the severity of the case. After 

having modified the inflammatory action, the high-heeled shoe 

may be dispensed with. Then, in order to get rid of the chronic 

enlargement, the part must be daily anointed, for a short time, 

with a portion of the following : 

Powdered iodine - - 1 dr. 

Simple ointment - - 7 dr. 

Mix. 

After a short time, the animal may be put to light work, still 
making an occasional application of iodine ointment. 

Should the parts about the hock degenerate into a hard callous, 
friction with cod-liver oil may be employed. Should this fail to 
have the desired effect, then make a few applications of the ace 
tate of cantharides, prepared as follows : 

Acetic acid (fluid) - - 1 oz. 

"Water - - 5 oz. 

Powdered cantharides - - 1 dr. t 

Mix. 



Bog, or Blood Spavin. 

It is always dangerous to attempt to remove the varix, or to 
puncture it ; and the only proper mode of treatment, in view of 
limiting its growth, for it cannot be cured, is to bathe it often with 
the following astringent lotion : 

Fluid extract of witch-hazel - - 2 oz. 
Fluid extract of bayberry bark - 4 oz. 
Proof spirit - - - 1 pt. 

Mix. 

Ringbone and Bone Spavin. 

Our object in the treatment of ring-bone is merely to aid nature. 
Excuse the animal from work, and apply sedative lotions (cold 



129 

water dressings) so long as the acute stage lasts ; then, when the 
case passes into the chronic stage, apply counter-irritants for a 
week or two, and finally, turn the patient out to grass. The fol- 
lowing will be found an effect sedative lotion : 

Spirits of camphor - - 2 oz. 

Fluid extract of wormwood - 1 oz. 
Vinegar - - - 5 oz. 

To be applied twice daily. 
The following is an excellent counter-irritant for ring-bone in 

its chronic stage : 

Cod-liver oil - ) Y 

Kerosene - - j ^ r 

Apply once or twice daily, until a crop of pustules appear ; then 

omit the application, and reapply it at the expiration of two or 
three intermitting periods. 

The remedies used by veterinary surgeons generally, are oil of 
cahtharides, acetate of cantharides, blistering ointment, ointment 
of biniodide of mercury, and, lastly, the actual cautery, or heated 
iron. I have tried all except the latter, which savors too much 
of barbarity, and never found anything to equal the preparation 
here recommended — namely, cod-liver oil and kerosene. 



Sweeny. 

All veterinary writers agree that sweeney is not a disease of 
itself: But that the seat of the difficulty is in the feet, usually 
caused by bad shoeing. 

Treatment — The principal treatment is rest; afterward diminish 
the work, and, by proper diet and tonics, increase the power to 
do it. The muscular patrs affected should be bathed, morning 
and evening, with a portion of the following : 

Fluid extract of wormwood - 2 oz. 

Fluid extract of poppies - 2 oz. 

Proof spirits - - • - 1 pt. 

Mix. 
Should the feet prove to be very hot and feverish, frequent 
bathing with cold water, or a cold infusion of hops, will have a 
very good effect. In the mean time give the animal two drachms 

Q 



130 

of fluid extract of gelseminum, once or twice per day, until the 
feverish symptoms subside. Then, when the case passes into the 
chronic stage (sweeny), the shoi^ders and wasted parts are to be 
well rubbed, often, with a portion of the following : 

Fluid extract of ginger - - 4 oz. 

Gum Camphor - - 1 oz. 

Olive oil - J pt. 

Pulverize the gum ; add it to the oil, in which it will soon dis- 
solve ; then mix with it the ginger, and the preparation is fit for 
use. 

Should the muscles of the shoulder waste, in consequence of 
chronic disease or altered structure about the hoof or within it, 
such as rine-bone, ossification of the lateral cartilages, etc., then a 
strong counter-irritant must be applied, for a week or so, around 
the coronet. At the same time we should treat the shoulder as 
above. A good counter-irritant for the coronet may be thus pre- 
pared : 

Cod- liver oil ) , 

Kerosene oil - - \ e( l ual P arts ' 

Mix. 



Rheumatism. 

Treatment — In the treatment of Rheumatism stimulating an in- 
flammatory type, our first object is to produce a sedative effect 
on the heart and its vessels of circulation. With this object in 
view, we administer one or two drachms of fluid extract of gelse- 
minum every four hours, until the pulse becomes softer. In the 
meantime a few doses of nitrate of potass should be given in the 
water which the animal drinks, at the rate of one ounce per day, 
divided into doses in proportion to the number of times the patient 
is watered. So soon as the animal evinces signs of improvement 
the above treatment is to be discontinued ; then give six cLrachms 
per day of fluid extract of prince's pine. The joints which seem 
to be affected are to be bathed occasionally with camphorated 
vinegar, in the proportion of one ounce of camphor to eight ounces 
(fluid) of vinegar. 



131 

Chronic Rheumatism. 

Chronic Rheumatism is usually the sequel of the acute kind. It 
is generally obstinate and lingering, and prone to recur. Unlike 
the acute kind, pain is alleviated by counter-irritation and exer- 
cise ; and when the patient gets warmed up, as the saying is, he 
either forgets his pains or becomes relieved. Bathing with warm 
vinegar has a good effect in the treatment of this disease, but I 
have fonnd the following liniment useful in almost all the cases 
that have come under my care : 

Oil of cedar - - - 2 oz. 

Sulphuric ether - - 1 oz. 

Proof spirit - - - 1 pt. 

First, mix together the oil of cedar and sulphuric ether ; then 
add the proot spirit, and after shaking it awhile, it is fit for use. 
Give the animal one fluid drachm of the fluid extract of colchi- 
cum-root, night and morning, for three days ; atter which give, 
daily, twenty-five grains of the iodide of potass, dissolved in half 
a gill of water. Should the animal show any signs of debility or 
loss of flesh, tonics, stimulants, and nutritious diet are indicated. 



Founder. 

The horse may be put into the stable at night all right. In the 
morning he is observed to be all in a heap, as the saying is — his 
flesh quivering, pulse very active, respirations quick and jerking; 
the flanks are tucked up, the back is roached, and the fore feet 
are sent forward so that the animal treads on his heels ; and, 
when compelled t:> move, he endeavors to throw the weight of his 
body. on the hind legs. He is thirsty and feverish, but has no 
appetite. All appearances about him indicate that he suffers 
great pain. When a hand is placed upon the fore-feet, they feel 
unnaturally hot. Such are the most prominent symptoms of lam- 
intis, or fever in the feet. 

Treatment — The principal objects to be accomplished are, to 
keep the feet cool by frequent sponging with cold water ; next, 
the bowels must be kept loose by means of bran-mashes, or, if 
necessary, a dose of Glauber salts — dose, twelve ounces, dissolved 
in a pint of warm water, to w T hich add half a gill of syrup — and 
an occasional enema of soap-suds, and also a few doses of fluid 
extract of gelseminum, say two drachms night and morning. This 
is the kind of treatment that the author has found most success- 
ful during a long period of practice. 



132 

Lameness. 

We have already considered the nature and treatment of vari- 
ous forms of lameness, occurring in consequence of strain or 
sprain of different parts of the body ; also that attending rheuma- 
tism and diseases of the feet. It only remains to offer a few 
remarks on some special forms of lameness. Lameness occurs in 
one of .two forms. We either find it in the acute stage, when 
from injury, or other causes, it comes on suddenly ; or else in the 
chronic stage, that form which has existed for some time. There- 
fore, there being only two forms of lameness, there are only two 
indications to fulfill, namely : in the acute stage, we endeavor to 
lessen the activity in the circulation, heat, and pain of the parts 
by rest and cold water bathing ; and when pain exists, we miti- 
gate it by bathing the affected parts with cold infusion of hops 
or poppy-heads. When the affection assumes a chronic type, we 
apply stimulants and counter-irritants. The following is the best 
remedy in use : 

Aqua ammonia - - 3i oz. 

Spirits of camphor - - 3 oz. 

Salt (bay or rock salt) - 8 oz. 

Water - - 2 pts. 

Dissolve the salt in the water, with a few drops of aqua am- 
monia; allow the impurities to settle, and add the clear liquor to 
the camphor and ammonia, the latter having been previously 
mixed. A portion of this should be rubbed on the region of the 
lameness morning and evening. Sometimes the actual seat of 
lameness may be somewhat obscme, yet we can generally find 
out which limb it is in ; then to make sure that we shall hit the 
mark, the whole limb may be treated. Should counter-irritation 
be necessary, strong liniments and. blisters, such as are in general 
use, are recommended. 



Scratches. 

This disease is well known to all horsemen. Treatment — Wash 
the parts well with castile soap and water, and when dry apply 
once a day the collodion, J oz , and castor oil, 1 oz.; or use a 
saturated solution of the bichloride of mercury once a week, but 
not often er, or mischief may arise in consequence of a too free use. 



Grease Heels. 

This is a white, offensive greasy discharge from the heels of the 
hoi*6e; the skin becomes hot, tender, and swollen; the acrid char- 






133 

acter of the discharge often causes large portions of the skin to 
slough away, leaving an ugly sore behind. Treatment — Open 
the bowels with the following ball : Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz., pul- 
verized gentian root, 2 dr., pulverized ginger, 1 dr., water suffic- 
ient to make the ball; wash the parts well and poultice for two or 
three days with the following : Flax-seed meal mixed with a 
solution of 2 dr. sulphate of zinc to a pint of water, after which 
keep clean and bathe frequently with glycerine, or the solution of 
zinc, or a solution of the chloride of lime may be used ; or the 
bichloride of mercury may be used in inveterate cases with good 
results, provided it be not repeated oftener than once a week. 

Dadcl says : Wash the parts well with castile soap and water, 
then rub dry, and apply three times a day a solution made of 
saltpetre, 2 oz., water, 1 pt., glycerine, 4 oz.; after each applica- 
tion, dust the part with pulverized charcoal. Give each day, for 
four or five days, mixed in bran mash, the following dose : Iodide 
of potass, 20 gr., sulphur, 4 dr., powdered sassafras bark, 2 dr., 
gentian, 1 dr. After that time discontinue the treatment and 
apply to the parts a mixture of equal parts pyroligneous acid and 
coal oil twice daity, and dust with charcoal after each application. 

Wind Broken or Heaves. 

This disease is well known, but it is not as prevalent as it was 
a few years since. A horse with the heaves should be fed on cut 
feed, or have his hay wet with water into which has been thrown 
a handful of salt. Some recommend wetting the hay with weak 
lime water. An occasional feed of carrots, parsnips or potatoes 
sliced is good. It has been found that if horses with the heaves 
are taken onto the western prairies they will be frequently entirely 
cured. Dadd says, "this is on account of the resin weed that 
abounds there." He says, "2 oz. of the fluid extract of resin 
weed, given night and morning, will cure the heaves, except in 
cases where the air cells of the lungs are ruptured." " But of all 
remedies nothing equals a run at grass on the prairie lands." 
There are many remedies given for curing heaves, long enough to 
trade horses; one is, oil of tar, oil of amber, equal parts; give 15 
or 20 drops in the feed daily; another, Spanish brown and ginger, 
equal parts; dose, teaspoonful three times a day. 

Roaring. 

Roaring, thick wind, whistling, etc., are often the sequel of 
strangles, influenza, laryngitis, and other affections of the respira- 



134 

tory passages, and hence have an accidental origin. In such cases, 
we may entertain a hope of doing some good by means of niedi- 
cinalagents and counter-irritation. Treatment: The medicines which 
have proved most successful in my practice are as follows: Iodide of 
potass, 4 oz., fluid extractof stillingia, 12 oz., water, 4 oz. ; mix. 

Give the patient two ounces daily, by means of a small vial ; 
and rub the region of the throat every night with a portion of the 
following : Cod-liver oil and spirits of turpentine, equal parts. 

Flatulent Colic. 

Give the patient a wide stall and plenty of bedding. Let him 
lie down, rise, and tumble about just as much as he pleases, only 
watch and see that no accident happens to the animal. The colic 
drench used by the author, during the past ten years, is composed 
of the following : Fluid extract of Jamaica ginger, 2 oz., fluid ex- 
tract of golden seal', 1 oz., powdered hyposulphite of soda, 1 oz., 
water, 4 oz. Dissolve the hyposulphite of soda in the water, then add 
the other ingredients to it. The dose may be repeated, if necessary. 

A good wisp ot straw, vigorously applied to the belly and 
flanks, and also to the limbs, may do some good, because we thus 
preserve the equilibrium of the circulation. Enemas of soap-suds 
should be administered often, and provided the case be a curable 
one, the horse will soon recover. 



Spasmodic Colic. 

In this disease the horse is attacked with spasms and some- 
times becomes furious, kicking and striking at any one that comes 
near him. Dadd recommends antispamodic medicines, such as 
assafetida, lobelia, sulphuric ether and copious injections of warm 
water, or an infusion of lobelia. Dadd gives an account of several 
cases of this disease that were successfully treated when the horse 
became unmanageable, and were put under the influence of 
chloroform and sulphuric ether, administered by means of a sponge 
on the end of a pole. They were kept under the influence of the 
ether from half an hour to an hour, when a little antispamodic 
medicine was given, or an injection of the infusion of lobelia, and 
the cure was effected. 



Inflammation of the Peritoneum. 

The most marked symptoms of peritonitis are as follows : In 
the early stage, the animal paws slightly, but not witli that sort 
of viciousness which is characteristic of colic or strangulation of 



135 

• 

the intestines. Soon, he shows febrile symptoms; the pulse runs 
up to seventy or more, and a shivering fit sets in. When pressure 
is made on the abdomen, the animal evinces signs of pain. He 
will sometimes get down and lie on his pack, but he soon finds 
out that the best way of lessening his pains and aches is to keep as 
quiet as possible. His tongue is usually coated, and the bowels 
are inactive. 

Treatment— Give the patient mucilaginous drinks, as in the 
case of enteritis, and drench him occasionally with an infusion of 
poppy-heads, in pint doses. Empty the rectum by means of soap- 
suds enemas, and then throw in a quart of infusion of hops. 
Cloths, wet with warm water, should be applied to the abdomen, 
and the surface of the body should be kept warm by means of 
blankets. This kind of treatment, with good nursing, will proba- 
bly restore the animal to health. Should symptoms of dropsy set 
in, give two ounces of fluid extract of buchu, daily. 

Distemper. 

This disease usually attacks young horses and colts. In its 
simple form it requires very little treatment, except good nursing, 
Give the horse warm bran mashes, and occasionally place a little 
tar on the tongue to facilitate the discharge from the nostrils. In 
more severe cases, it there is much inflammation, apply to the 
throat wet bandages of cold water, frequently changed, to reduce 
the inflammation. Then poultice the throat with flax-seed meal, 
and give warm bran mashes, into which sprinkle 1 oz. of chlorate 
of potass. Perhaps it will be advisable to apply a counter-irritant 
to the throat, composed of equal parts of cod liver oil and spirits 
ot camphor. As soon as the swelling under the jaw becomes 
sott it should be lanced. In very severe cases, where there U 
great distress for breath, and danger of suffocation, Dadd gives 
several accounts of successful cases of tracheotomy, or tube 
inserted in the wind pipe. He makes an incision in the skin, 
directly over the wind-pipe, cuts out a piece the size of the tube, 
which is held in its place by the means of elastic tapes, which 
are passed upon each side and tied on the back of the neck. If 
there is no tube to be had, make a small opening in the windpipe, 
cut a small orifice in each side and attach the strings, and tie 
them over the neck just tight enongh to keep the jaws of the 
wound open. Dadd says, the operation, as formidable as it may 
appear, is unattended with danger, and should always be resorted 
to in those cases of stoppage of the nostril, when suffocation and 
death would otherwise be the result. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Preface 3 

Introduction 5 

Remarks on the Nature and disposition of the Horse 7 

The Wild Colt 15 

First Method for Ordinary Cases 16 

Second Method IS 

How to Handle the Feet 21 

To Make a Colt Follow Under the Whip 22 

Teaching the Colt to Ride 23 

To Teach the Colt to Back 23 

Bitting the Colt 24 

How to Make a Bitting Bridle 25 

Training to Harness 26 

Driving 27 

How to Break a Colt in One Lesson 23 

Horse Taming Ring 30 

Subduing the Horse 31 

Kicking in Harness 33 

Kicking Straps 35 

The Runaway Horse 36 

Balky Horses 39 

Baity of Familiarizing to Objects of Fear , . 44 

Objects of Fear 45 

To Train a Horse to Stand When Getting Into a Carriage 47 

Kicking and Pawing in the Stall 4S 

Kicking While Grooming 49 

Halter Polling 50 

To Make a Fast and Slow, Horse Work Together 51 

Bad Biters 52 

Cribbing 52 

Putting the Tongue out of the Mouth 53 

To Prevent a Horse from Breaking While Trotting 54 

Getting Cast in Stall 54 

To Add Style 55 

on the Bringing Up and Management of Horses 56 

Bad to Catch in Pasture 61 

Jumping in the Pasture 62 

Bad to Shoe 63 

Bad to Bridle : 64 

Biting the Blanket or Halter 64 

Switching and Hugging the Line Under Ins Tail 65 

Hard Bitted Ooroes 65 

Teaching Tricks 66 

now to Tell a Horse's Age by the Teeth 72 

Training Cattle •••■ 74 

Training Dogfl 79 

Shoeing , 

nedics 105 



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